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Lower Cliffs, Upper Tier
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Country Bumpkin T,S 
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Piss Ant, The T 
Rocco's Corner T 
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Super Slab 4 You T 
When Joey Comes Marching Home T 

Country Bumpkin 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 265
Submitted By: Paul Rezucha on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Paul safely clipped to a bolt with a bit of 5.9 fa...

Description 

The crux of Country Bumpkin is getting over the small overhang/flake and clipped to the next bolt. A fun, thin crux makes for an enjoyable climb. The photo at right is a bit misleading as the photo is very foreshortened. The overhang/flake is really a little over 1/2 way up.


Location 

Country Bumpkin starts on the third tier from the anchors of Pappy Smear. The climb is really about 75' long. A bolt about 15' up off the deck is reached by friction climbing up the slab. Care must be taken on the easier ground all the way to the flake as you are high above your last gear. A long walk down west around the cliff and back can be done but there are anchors along the top of the cliff for rappel which is what most people do.


Protection 

Three bolts are found on the climb but small and large cams add protection to some dicy spots. Getting clipped to the first bolt over the flake would be scary without gear under the flake and climbing up the last 5.9 face to the top without additional gear after the last bolt would be very bold indeed.



Photos of Country Bumpkin Slideshow Add Photo
The route is shown here with bolt placements indicated.  Additional gear helps the longer runouts!
The route is shown here with bolt placements indic...
Paul clipped to the bolt above the flake.  Crux is getting stood above the flake and clipped to the next bolt.
Paul clipped to the bolt above the flake. Crux is...
Comments on Country Bumpkin Add Comment
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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Oct 29, 2006

Just was out here today and it looks like Country Bumpkin has a first pitch that goes up the right side of the Middle Tier. The obvious easier ground at the right follows a left leaning crack system and then up to the top. The pro is decent and the climbing not too hard at around 5.7 or so.