WI5+ M6+ PG13
||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 140'
|Consensus: ||WI5+ M6+ [details]|
|FA: ||Rob 'Griz' Ginieczki|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||711|
|Submitted By: ||Rob Griz on Mar 1, 2010|
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Working up sun-baked snow-cone
An incredible line in a great setting. I have looked at this line enroute to Cody in the winter of 2008. The lower 40' of ice was overhanging, ultra-thin verglas on the wall and given the right conditions, could (and I'm sure has based on the slings I saw atop) formed up as a pure ice line. I checked it out again on my 2010 trip to Cody and started dry tooling the killer crack to the left of the water streak. After a hard night of partying at Cassie's, I conned my good friend to use our Cody 'rest-day' to head down and give it a go.
A crack-of-noon start had me driving pins and placing thin cams, under bright sun, for the first 45' of pure rock on lunker tool placements. The ominous free-hanging curtain had me a bit concerned as the mid-day sun baked it. A high rock piece (#1 angle)allowed me to commit to mashed-potato crud, finally digging out some decent ice. Thin but good feet on wild mini-pockets made the traverse reasonable as I cleaned a ton of overhanging junk to pull up through and onto the main ice curtain. Dead-vert snow-cone lead up for 70'. The rock is a sharp but decent limestone, I cleaned @ 10lbs off the wall. Awesome!
Directly above the parking area. Hike up to gain a ridge just right of the route. Rap from a cedar tree on the right with slings.
A set of cams (BD #000 to #3 Camalot), #1 baby angle, large knifeblade, mid-large nuts, a few 16-22 screws. There is a fixed pin (#2 Angle) about 30' up, in the crack.
Headed up great mixed climbing
BETA PHOTO: Counting Coup follows the crack, left of the ice/b...
Cruizin' to the top, oh yeah!
By Doug Shepherd
Mar 16, 2010
This area is illegal to climb in, see the area description for more info
By Mike Snyder
Sep 20, 2013
So let's get this straight Mr. Griz, you left the perfect winter playground of The Southfork in Cody to trespass on sacred and private Indian reservation land to poach this and probably other ice/mixed climbs. You then go on to post your illegal exploits on the internet and, if this wasn't enough, go on to claim an FA of something that was obviously climbed before. WOW! You are my hero.