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Counter Curse 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
Page Views: 700
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009
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Myself on an early run...

Description 

Counter Curse offers some really good climbing on bulletproof black rock that is bookended by two hard-to-decipher cruxes. Begin as for Dark Arts, but just before the bolt on that pitch traverse left along a horizontal to a roof/alcove. Clip a bolt here and step up into a V-slot. All I can say is good luck. Maybe try that SuperTopo Harding Slot beta...

Above this follow a vague corner with thin gear to some jugs about 20' below the anchors. A difficult move here leads up to some good edges and the chains. This is a brilliantly perplexing climb.


Protection 

Thin pro (gear to 1/2"), wires, draws.



Photos of Counter Curse Slideshow Add Photo
Moving into the mysterious low flare crux...  This section has shut down many an onsight attempt! <br />My tall boy beta is to layback the flare pinch facing left. There are a couple different crimps out right to balance, and then a small dead point to a wrapper jug, which is still to the right of the flare....
Moving into the mysterious low flare crux... This...
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By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

"Brilliantly perplexing" is a good description of this route. I found the low bulge to be the crux. There was another tough move up high as well. I would not argue with anyone who wanted to rate this route a 5.12. It certainly took a 5.12 effort for me to onsight it.

By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 1, 2010

You gotta stay slightly right of the "V" slot, small crimps and a deadpoint to a huge hold.