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Cougar Narrows

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Cougar Narrows  

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 22, 2009
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  • Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Cougar Narrows is a beautiful location with short, water-polished limestone walls on either side of a stream.

    The stream runs roughly north-south through this area so shade will be available in early- to mid-morning and in the later part of the afternoon.

    The rock here is different from any other climbing area in American Fork Canyon in that it is very smooth (glass-like in some spots), the pockets are mostly shallow, smooth affairs, and the friction is low.

    Getting There 

    Take the trail along the stream (bed) in Tank Canyon for about 12 to 15 minutes from the road until you arrive at a narrow area with smooth, polished walls on either side of the stream.

    Route List 

    West side, left-to-right:

    1. project
    2. Beamer's Claw 5.10b (follows crack, ramp)
    3. The Contortionist 5.12a
    4. The Nonsightable 5.11c
    5. Nair 5.7
    6. IQ Test 5.11c
    7. Pig Charmer 5.10a
    8. A Slab of Greasy Bacon 5.11d
    9. Pig Trough 5.9 (pitch 2 above Pig Charmer/A Slab of Greasy Bacon)

    East side, left-to-right:

    1. Zoe and the Box 5.12c
    2. The Gray Lynx 5.12d
    3. project
    4. project
    5. project

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 1.5 miles from here

    3 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cougar Narrows:
    Nair   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
    Beamer's Claw   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
    Browse More Classics in Cougar Narrows

    Featured Route For Cougar Narrows
    Slippery rock!

    Pig Charmer 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Cougar Narrows
    A line that is more difficult than it looks, with polished, slippery rock right where you don't want it.Start up a right-ward trending weakness finding pockets and learning to trust the glassy foot "holds." After the second bolt comes some difficult movement to clip the third bolt, followed by a few very delicate moves to larger holds above. After the fourth bolt the angle eases considerably and the water-polished rock gives way to rougher, more standard-looking limestone....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

    Photos of Cougar Narrows Slideshow Add Photo
    Cougar Narrows is water-polished limestone.
    Cougar Narrows is water-polished limestone.

    Comments on Cougar Narrows Add Comment
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    By steve edwards
    From: SLC, UT
    Sep 18, 2010
    Anybody working these projects? Climbed here today and had to clean everything like mad and it seems as though there hasn't been much action since, perhaps, the routes were first bolted. A tree is covering the start of Zoe (which otherwise looks quite nice) and the long route not listed here seems like it's had very little traffic (nice route though). The climbing is pretty interesting and the routes have all the spider webs you need, so I'm wondering why it doesn't see more traffic.
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