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Pitch 1: Begin up the obvious corner/ramp. Follow this to a belay at an Oak tree with some rap sling's on it. Belay at the tree or 10 feet higher at a stance. 5.7, 200ft.
Pitch 2: The crux pitch. Follow the obvious right facing corner/ overlap system up and right. About 30ft off the belay find some good gear then do face moves across a section of white rock. Head for the obvious crack system. Follow these cracks up and left to an area of trees. Climb up and right through the trees. Belay at a very good ledge directly below a varnished open book corner.
Pitch 3: Stem up the varnished corner above, fiddling in nuts for gear. Belay on the obvious huge ledge, which is near the last pitch of Lotta balls. 5.10b, 50ft.
Pitch 4: Climb the last pitch of Lotta Balls. 5.5, 70ft.
Use the standard Lotta Balls descent.
The route is located on the east face of the Lotta balls buttress. Start very near the bottom of the buttress, near the start of the route Beerrun. This route is very obvious from the standard Lotta Balls descent.
Standard Rack. You might want a couple of RP's for the Varnished corner pitch. Maybe an Extra 3" piece for pitch 2.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Apr 3, 2008
I want to add a couple more comments about the route without cluttering the description.
The first pitch had more than Likely been climbed before. We found a cam that had been left as an obvious retreat piece plus rap slings on the trees. The trees on the second pitch also had rap slings, however these appeared to be from people screwing up the Lotta balls descent.This is probably the case with the slings on the first pitch as well. The 2nd pitch had obviously not been climbed, nor the 3rd.
I really enjoyed this route. The crux is alittle sandy, but fun. You defiantly have to think your way through it.