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At the crux.
This route has tempted many a climber over the years; the several leaver biners are a testament to its deviousness. It was bolted as a project years ago and seemingly abandoned and largely forgotten.
Due to the strange placement of a few key bolts, I believe the route hasn't seen a previous ascent. In July 2011, the bolts were moved to make the route leadable.
It starts with some 10ish climbing, then it cruises on easy climbing to the roof. Here starts a series of thuggish boulder problems which continue through the next 3-4 bolts. A mossy jug haul brings you to the anchors.
This is to the right of The Black Roof
. This route climbs through the large, imposing roof that has a fixed draw at the apex.