Cote d'Azure 5.13b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.13b [details] |
| FA: | Steve Burgerella, 1995 |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Oct 27, 2006 |
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Walker on the send!! WOOHOO!!
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Description Just right of Coral Sea, Cote d'Azure climbs the center of the steep wall on the right side of the raised ledge. Boulder up and clip the first two bolts and then come back down to the ledge to rest. The crux of the climb involves weird moves up a steep wall. A V8ish boulder problem brings you to the lip. The draw at the lip is hard to clip; many people forego it on redpoint. Rock over onto a mini hanging slab and rest up for the headwall. From here, amazing 5.12a climbing continues to the anchors. This upper part of Cote d'Azure has been called the best 5.12 at Rumney. Unfortunately for some, this climbing is guarded by the tough, bouldery climbing on the lower wall. It is somewhat understandable, though not forgivable, that a rock was glued on in order to "enhance" one of the crux holds. This made the route a more crowd pleasing 5.12d. However, the climb was quickly returned to its natural state and now rarely gets sent. (Edit - The enhancement was a random rock glued on to a flat section, not on another hold. It was done by the original bolter, and not by Steve, who later freed the route without using it. The rock was then removed. As more people climb the grade, it is being climbed more frequently now.)
Protection Bolts
Another one of walker.
| otey, workin it...
| otey sticking the crux grab
| otey pulling over the roof...
| jump otey jump!
| otey eating rope and looking bad ass!
| wow... cool...
| otey, last few moves
| i love this exposure! otey grabbing the top with t...
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By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jun 29, 2010
| This route deserves a lot more ascents. It has great moves that tax your brains and brawn. I think it spanks a lot of people though. It may be closer to 13c now than originally, as I think a hold changed some. Many strong climbers find it stiff. As with many Rumney climbs, finely tuned beta makes a difference. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Aug 31, 2011
| one of the best lines on the cliff!!! the upper half is amazing!!! |
By James Otey From: NH Nov 3, 2011 rating: 5.13b
| This and Thin Man are the best routes I've climbed at Rumney |
By FelixBM Jun 12, 2012
| RIP J'ai cassé la reglette clée à la troisième clip. La difficulté du parcours en a prix un coups. Il y a eu une ascention en moulinette, mais pas à que je sache en libre. Désolé |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Mar 11, 2013
| Has this been climbed free since the latest hold change? |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Mar 11, 2013
| To the best of my knowledge Zeb Engberg sent it after the hold broke and it was thought to be about 13d... it has since been restored, the broken hold replaced and i hear it came out perfectly and you cant see anything was done... |
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