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The Citadel
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Costanoan S 
Power Tools S 

Costanoan 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
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Page Views: 1,788
Submitted By: ascender30 on Feb 21, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Left Side of the Citadel.


Location 

No anchor at top, just downclimb off the left side.


Protection 

bolts each pitch, with plenty of long runouts



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By Jason Ogasian
Feb 27, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Not sure why the Location Section says "No anchor at top" there are most definitely anchors at the top of all four pitches, each has rap rings. Other than that, some tips might be:
- Watch out for loose stuff on the ledge at the top of P1.
- The second bolt on P4 is impossible to see until you go up and over the hump on the left side of the route, it's farther than you'd think :)
- Be careful on the approach, still haven't gone and not had anyone in the group fall down at least once.

By Jeff Stroh
Mar 17, 2013

Down climb is a bit tricky. All bolts are there. Saw a rattle snake on the way up. Hike over from the east side, long climb made it a fun day.

By Chris Bersbach
From: Arroyo Grande, CA
Apr 18, 2013

Does anyone know what the 2013 raptor closure schedule on The Citadel?

By Floyd Hayes
Aug 29, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The approach is 0.9 miles, takes about 35 minutes, and the trail is relatively easy to follow, although a bit steep at times, with no bushwhacking. When you reach the Citadel keep going left uphill until you reach the top at the foot of the northeast buttress where there is a small clearing in the chaparral.

The rock is surprisingly solid and the climb is very well protected for a 4-pitch "5.4" sport climb. Any dislodged rocks are likely to bounce down to the right of the route, out of harm's way. The runouts occur on easy terrain and some bolts are ridiculously close together (especially pitch 3). Here are my estimates of each pitch's rating, length, and bolt count:

Pitch 1: 5.5 (crux at start), 100', 7 bolts
Pitch 2: 5.3, 95', 5 bolts
Pitch 3: 5.3, 85', 3 bolts
Pitch 4: 5.2, 90', 4 bolts

After clipping the first bolt, aim up and left toward the ridge to find the second bolt. It's runout but very easy, like 5.0, and you can sling knobs if you feel uncomfortable. Attach a double-length runner to bolt 2 or you'll feel a lot of rope drag higher up.

We took along two 60' ropes and descended in three rappels: (1) pitch 3, (2) pitches 2-3 (which avoided an uncomfortable anchor), and (3) pitch 1.

By Floyd Hayes
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

A video of the climb is posted here.