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The Citadel
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Costanoan S 
Power Tools S 

Costanoan 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,345
Submitted By: ascender30 on Feb 21, 2011  with updates from Brian Snider and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Justin on top of P1

Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Left Side of the Citadel.

Location 

No anchor at top, just downclimb off the left side.

Protection 

Bolts each pitch, with plenty of long runouts. There are rap rings every pitch including the top.


Photos of Costanoan Slideshow Add Photo
70 meter on the final rap.
BETA PHOTO: 70 meter on the final rap.
The hanging belay atop P2 and a view of the "...
The hanging belay atop P2 and a view of the "...

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By Jason Ogasian
Feb 27, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Not sure why the Location Section says "No anchor at top" there are most definitely anchors at the top of all four pitches, each has rap rings. Other than that, some tips might be:
- Watch out for loose stuff on the ledge at the top of P1.
- The second bolt on P4 is impossible to see until you go up and over the hump on the left side of the route, it's farther than you'd think :)
- Be careful on the approach, still haven't gone and not had anyone in the group fall down at least once.
By Jeff Stroh
Mar 17, 2013

Down climb is a bit tricky. All bolts are there. Saw a rattle snake on the way up. Hike over from the east side, long climb made it a fun day.
By Chris Bersbach
From: Arroyo Grande, CA
Apr 18, 2013

Does anyone know what the 2013 raptor closure schedule on The Citadel?
By Floyd Hayes
Aug 29, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The approach is 0.9 miles, takes about 35 minutes, and the trail is relatively easy to follow, although a bit steep at times, with no bushwhacking. When you reach the Citadel keep going left uphill until you reach the top at the foot of the northeast buttress where there is a small clearing in the chaparral.

The rock is surprisingly solid and the climb is very well protected for a 4-pitch "5.4" sport climb. Any dislodged rocks are likely to bounce down to the right of the route, out of harm's way. The runouts occur on easy terrain and some bolts are ridiculously close together (especially pitch 3). Here are my estimates of each pitch's rating, length, and bolt count:

Pitch 1: 5.5 (crux at start), 100', 7 bolts
Pitch 2: 5.3, 95', 5 bolts
Pitch 3: 5.3, 85', 3 bolts
Pitch 4: 5.2, 90', 4 bolts

After clipping the first bolt, aim up and left toward the ridge to find the second bolt. It's runout but very easy, like 5.0, and you can sling knobs if you feel uncomfortable. Attach a double-length runner to bolt 2 or you'll feel a lot of rope drag higher up.

We took along two 60' ropes and descended in three rappels: (1) pitch 3, (2) pitches 2-3 (which avoided an uncomfortable anchor), and (3) pitch 1.
By Floyd Hayes
Sep 16, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

A video of the climb is posted here.
By ToDoubleD Whitney
From: Aptos, CA
Jul 28, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

What an awesome climb! This was my first multi pitch I've lead entirely. It was for the most part easy except on pitch two I got a little lost and went to the right, when I should've gone left. (seems to be a theme with this route. If you're wondering where to go go left...) I ended up a couple feet above and to the right of the second, hanging, anchor. I really dislike run-out, but the distance between the first and second bolts on the first pitch wasn't bad for me, as the climbing is so easy.

The guide book says the Citadel is in the shade and therefore a good place to climb on hot days, and this is true, except for this one route. It was in the sun all day and I drank my entire 64oz bottle.

My partner and I rapped off with a single 70m rope, which just barely touched the ground on the first pitch. The quick link is still on the first bolt for those with a single 60m. Our two friends decided to walk off. They very much regretted that decision.
By John Buchenauer
May 3, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The quick link has been missing since Jan 10th. There's enough rings on Power Tools to get down to the ground with a 60m though. 50m or shortened 60m won't make it. Just be careful scrambling down to the top anchor, it's loose and a slip would probably be fatal. If you time it right, (start mid afternoon 2:30 maybe) you can climb the entire route in shade, catch a nice view from the top and rappel down entirely in the shade. Makes for a dark walk back to the car so bring lights.

Use a double runner on the 2nd bolt of P1 to eliminate drag.
Bolt counts/my est of length:
P1 - 7 - 35m
P2 - 6 - 30m
P3 - 3 (4 if you clip the anchor) - 25m
P4 - 4 (5 if you clip the anchor) - 28m

Anchors are all in good shape, rock can be a bit loose around them though. At the hanging belay I touched a rock and it crumbled into my hands. The rest of the rock is quite solid. I rated it 5.7 because the very first move is quite possibly that hard (small undercling/sidepull lieback thing), but it's right off the ground and could be probably be skipped with a dyno or boost. Rest of the route is 5.4 or easier. Definitely worth doing once and as a first multipitch for anyone wanting to learn, easy climbing, bolted, multiple rappels needed to get down, a hanging belay and a great view.
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