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Routes in Penon d'Ifach
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Costa Blanca S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Diedra UBSA T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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El Navigante S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mare Nostrum S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Polvos Magicos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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To Have and To Hold S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Valencianos T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Via Pany T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 666 ft (202 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Jaime Arviza, Salvador Guerola 1993 |
| Page Views: | 4,294 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | RyanO on Apr 6, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Access Issue: Permit Required
Details
Note: Access to the tourist trail on Penyal D'ifach is currently restricted by permit. This trail is only descent for most routes and the approach for many. There are 300 permits given per day. You can acquire a permit here: gva.es/va/inicio/procedimie…
Permits can be procured day of assuming there are any left. There are usually no permits available day-of on the weekends so plan ahead.
According to signage the fine for violating the permit restrictions is 600-6000 euros. I assume this goes for people who come up a route like Diedra UBSA that doesn't require access to the main path but descends it. There were people at the base of the wall by 9am checking permits.
Permits can be procured day of assuming there are any left. There are usually no permits available day-of on the weekends so plan ahead.
According to signage the fine for violating the permit restrictions is 600-6000 euros. I assume this goes for people who come up a route like Diedra UBSA that doesn't require access to the main path but descends it. There were people at the base of the wall by 9am checking permits.
Description
--via RockFax
rockfax.com/databases/r.php…
A brilliant route which is one of the best in the area. The climbing is superb and independent, and the finish is breathtaking. It is fully equipped. Start as for Vía Valencianos.
1) -, 15m. Move up, then right along a ledge to belay below a slab.
2) 6b, 40m. Climb onto a slab and make some thin moves up leftwards. Easier climbing leads up and right to a belay.
3) 6b, 35m. Climb directly up the wall and grooves above.
4) 6a, 35m. Continue to a stance on the edge of the pinnacle.
5) 6b+, 32m. Step down and across the gully onto the wall behind. Surmount a small overhang and continue up the wall above with some sustained moves and long reaches.
6) 6b+, 20m. Straight up the wall to the large upper cave.
7) 6c+, 30m. Swing wildly out of the cave and grind to a halt at thin move. After a rest another hard move, involving a blind reach, gains easier ground and the top.
rockfax.com/databases/r.php…
A brilliant route which is one of the best in the area. The climbing is superb and independent, and the finish is breathtaking. It is fully equipped. Start as for Vía Valencianos.
1) -, 15m. Move up, then right along a ledge to belay below a slab.
2) 6b, 40m. Climb onto a slab and make some thin moves up leftwards. Easier climbing leads up and right to a belay.
3) 6b, 35m. Climb directly up the wall and grooves above.
4) 6a, 35m. Continue to a stance on the edge of the pinnacle.
5) 6b+, 32m. Step down and across the gully onto the wall behind. Surmount a small overhang and continue up the wall above with some sustained moves and long reaches.
6) 6b+, 20m. Straight up the wall to the large upper cave.
7) 6c+, 30m. Swing wildly out of the cave and grind to a halt at thin move. After a rest another hard move, involving a blind reach, gains easier ground and the top.
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