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 ADVANCED
Penon d'Ifach
Routes Sorted
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Costa Blanca S 
Diedra UBSA T,S 
El Navigante S 
To Have and To Hold S 
Valencianos T 
Unsorted Routes:

Costa Blanca 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 6 pitches, 666'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jaime Arviza, Salvador Guerola 1993
Page Views: 525
Submitted By: RyanO on Apr 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Climbers heading up pitch 6 of Costa Blanca on the...

Description 

--via RockFax
rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=...

A brilliant route which is one of the best in the area. The climbing is superb and independent, and the finish is breathtaking. It is fully equipped. Start as for Vía Valencianos.
1) -, 15m. Move up, then right along a ledge to belay below a slab.
2) 6b, 40m. Climb onto a slab and make some thin moves up leftwards. Easier climbing leads up and right to a belay.
3) 6b, 35m. Climb directly up the wall and grooves above.
4) 6a, 35m. Continue to a stance on the edge of the pinnacle.
5) 6b+, 32m. Step down and across the gully onto the wall behind. Surmount a small overhang and continue up the wall above with some sustained moves and long reaches.
6) 6b+, 20m. Straight up the wall to the large upper cave.
7) 6c+, 30m. Swing wildly out of the cave and grind to a halt at thin move. After a rest another hard move, involving a blind reach, gains easier ground and the top.

Location 

south face, same start as via valencianos, walk off, say hi to the kitties!

Protection 

15 draws


Photos of Costa Blanca Slideshow Add Photo
José Ortega surmounts the overhang on pitch 5 of C...
José Ortega surmounts the overhang on pitch 5 of C...

Comments on Costa Blanca Add Comment
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By Matt Mendonza
Jan 12, 2015

This route was fantastic, every pitch is fun, and the rock is mostly high quality.

On pitch 5 you can protect the moves to the first bolt with a sling on the large jug block. Not necessary but eases the mind as you make that one move up to the bolt.

The last pitch was just phenomenal excellent move with huge exposure down to the ground.
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