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Routes in Inner Sanctum
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Bad Company S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Baer Necessity S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Consenting Adult S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cosmic Trigger S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crack 'n Up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cybersex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Karmic Retribution S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Naughty Neighbors S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Netizen Hacktivist S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Psyberpunk S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Quaquaversal Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tabernacle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Universe Next Door, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Greg Martin |
| Page Views: | 3,039 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Land Owned by Muir Valley Nature Preserve
Details
Officially known as Muir Valley Nature Preserve, Muir Valley is one of Red River Gorge's crown jewels. Originally the area was privately owned by Rick and Liz Weber, but in March 2015 the Webers gifted the land to the non-profit Friends of Muir Valley (FOMV), a 501(c)3 organization. FOMV is now 100% responsible for the ownership, in addition to funding and up-keeping the property.
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
The valley is home to more than 30 separate climbing walls, all open to climbers at no charge, a $15 fee is charged per car for parking to offset maintenance costs.
Some important rules must be followed to ensure future access and enjoyment by all. A complete list can be found at muirvalley.org/tabs/#pills-1 , but the most important are listed below:
- All climbers must fill out a legal release form before climbing. muirvalley.org/waiver/ ;
- The parking lot described in the directions below is the only permitted parking. Do not park on private drives.
- No dogs are allowed in Muir Valley (nor left in your car in the parking lot.)
- No hammocks are allowed to be hung/used in Muir Valley.
Description
With so many RRG routes over-hyped & over-star-ed in the guidebook, its rare to find a route that is better than expected, but this diamond in the rough delivers the goods. Surely one of the best 12a's at the Red, this route climbs a beautiful swath of sculpted, slightly overhanging orange sandstone, with interesting, continuous movement and a technical crux just below the top.
Stick clip the first bolt and make insecure moves between large slopers. More slopers lead out right to a tough move around the second bolt. Head back left to the orange streak where the holds get more positive and the fun begins. Charge up the steep wall on good holds to an obvious blank section just below the top. Cerebral moves between incut crimps and positive pockets leads to the slopey lip. Move right, mantle it out & clip the chains.
Stick clip the first bolt and make insecure moves between large slopers. More slopers lead out right to a tough move around the second bolt. Head back left to the orange streak where the holds get more positive and the fun begins. Charge up the steep wall on good holds to an obvious blank section just below the top. Cerebral moves between incut crimps and positive pockets leads to the slopey lip. Move right, mantle it out & clip the chains.
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