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Leaning Wall
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Cosmic Trauma T 
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Cosmic Trauma 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 11 pitches, 1000', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b C3 [details]
FA: Barry Ward, Alan Humphreys, 4/89
Page Views: 531
Submitted By: nelsras on Aug 10, 2012

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Description 

A quality clean aid line up the middle of the Leaning Wall. A step up in difficulty from Space Shot, but generally a lot less crowded. You can easily fix the first 3 to 4 pitches and then fire the rest in a day, so you don't have to haul.

P1-P3: Same start as Space Shot.

P4: From the ledge were the Space Shot bolt ladder takes off, traverse left and squeeze through the "worm hole" then up to a ledge below a right facing dihedral/squeeze chimney. We had the leader squeeze through the "worm hole" then toss a trail line down to pull the rack up.
(5.8 80 ft)

P5: The start of the route. Squeeze up the chimney, to a bolt ladder through a bulge, to a hanging belay. (5.9 C1, 110ft)

P6: Climb a sweet thin crack using small cams and offset nuts. Ends at a bolted stance below a flared chimney. (C2+, 110ft)

P7: Aid up the thin crack in back of an awkward flared chimney then over a tricky roof to another hanging belay. I found the smallest 3 Lowe Balls especially useful on this pitch. (C3, 100ft)

P8: A little tricky. Aid up and right following discontinuous cracks and hooks to a large ledge at about the same level as Earth Orbit ledge on Space Shot. Watch for loose rocks as you pull onto the ledge. (C3, 100')

P9: Traverse up and left along ledges to the bottom of a big loose gulley. (5.8, 50ft)

P10: Scramble up loose gulley then traverse left along a ledge to a crack in arete around the corner. Set up a belay off an old bolt and 5" cam. (5.grunge, 100ft)

P11: Around the corner climb 5.9 crack in arete using lots of face holds to a 2 bolt belay. This pitch has somewhat of a north aspect so it has a lot of lichen and can be wet in the winter. (5.9, 70ft)

P10/11 Variation: Scramble up loose gulley, then continue straight up 5.10 offwidth. This combines 10 and 11, but it's not very fun. (5.10, 150ft)

P12: Scramble 4th class to the top. (150ft)

Descent: The same as Space Shot. Use caution in the dark, especially if it's winter as there can be icy sections.


Location 

Shares start with Space Shot. It's left of Space Shot and right of Moon Patrol


Protection 

Clean Aid Rack
2 sets HB Brass offsets
2 sets Nuts
Lowe Balls: (1 each) #1, #2, #3
TCU's: (2) #00, #0 (3) #1, #2, (2) #3, #4
Camalots: (1)#.5, #.75 (3) #1, #2 (2) #3, #4 (2) #3.5 (1) #4, #5
Double of each hooks
Lots of long runners
No pins needed



Photos of Cosmic Trauma Slideshow Add Photo
The Leaning Wall with Space Shot and Cosmic Trauma lines drawn in.
BETA PHOTO: The Leaning Wall with Space Shot and Cosmic Trauma...
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