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Cosmic Space Dust Lazers 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 9 pitches, 1000'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Christian Knight and Bret Crapo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 7,800
Submitted By: Christian Knight on Apr 23, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Rough topo. Photo taken from near the mouth of the...


Pitch 1 (5.5): Climb straight up a low angle slab with positive edges until you reach a large ledge with ring anchors.

Pitch 2 (5.7): Climb up and to the right traversing flakes and edges until you get to a small "gap" in the exposed arete that you are on. Reach across and pull up using big holds and enjoy the temporary exposure before reaching a small ledge with 2 bolts for an anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.8): Climb up towards a steep but subtle prow using big holds and interesting body positioning until you pull a small bulge. Once past this bulge continue up on positive edges and pull a small roof, arriving at a large grassy ledge with 2 bolts for anchors. It is possible to skip the last roof on this pitch and traverse left to a ledge with with ring anchors and an exposed path to the walk off.

After pitch three it is possible to walk off to the north and then back down the gully.

Additional pitches established some time after the first three await above:

The added six pitches work their way up as high as the rock goes. The first four additional pitches take you up to a high ridge-line/steep meadow, and then an additional pinnacle finishes the route off with two more pitches.

Pitch 4 (5.7): Climb up and to the right, traversing blocky holds on a slightly overhanging bulge and ending on a spacious ledge with ring anchors.

Pitch 5 (5.7): Climb straight off of the belay and tackle a strenuous mantle, then move up and left over nice edges to finish at a ledge with ring anchors

Pitch 6: (5.7) Climb up into a mildly overhanging corner and pull over the steep corner. Continue up slabby terrain to a ledge with ring anchors.

Pitch 7 (5.4): Very short scramble up to a tiny wall with a single bolt+hanger. Kind of a mini-pitch. Walk along the ridge for awhile and then scramble to the base of the next wall.

Pitch 8 (5.7): Climb up a low angle exposed arete with an occasional bulge until you reach a small pedestal ledge with ring anchors.

Pitch 9 (5.10): Climb past several small holds directly off the belay working up to a flake and bigger holds slightly left. Continue up through steep exposed bulges with smaller holds until you arrive on some ledges with ring anchors just below the summit.

Walking off to the NW towards the saddle of Trilogy Buttress and down to the West is the easiest way off of the route. However, you can rappel the entire route if you have a 70m rope.

Admin note: This description is an amalgamation of the original description of this route by Christian Knight and the description from an entry titled Cosmic Space Dust Lazers (extension) by Jason MT. The later entry was merged with this entry.

Also note that the consensus rating will be off until many more climbers put in their ratings. The ratings from the extension entry did not make it in the merge.


Start climbing the slab on the upper tier about 15 feet right of Ledgarithm.


Walk off the top north (recommended) or rappel off the top down to Ledgarithm and continue down that route.


12 Quickdraws and a few slings will help with rope drag.

Photos of Cosmic Space Dust Lazers Slideshow Add Photo
Neena following up the first pitch.
Neena following up the first pitch.
Top of the 3rd pitch! Pretty good exposure.
Top of the 3rd pitch! Pretty good exposure.
Looking down from the end of the 2nd pitch.
Looking down from the end of the 2nd pitch.
A view of AC/DC wall scrambling down after Cosmic'...
A view of AC/DC wall scrambling down after Cosmic'...
Darrell Hodges and Galen Downing climbing Lazers o...
Darrell Hodges and Galen Downing climbing Lazers o...
Almost the top of the third pitch on March 8th 201...
Almost the top of the third pitch on March 8th 201...
A bit closer view of the last pitch.
A bit closer view of the last pitch.
Cleaning the top of the 2nd pitch of Cosmic Space ...
Cleaning the top of the 2nd pitch of Cosmic Space ...
This climb is rad. To the max!
This climb is rad. To the max!
The final 2 pitches of Cosmic Space Dust Lazers, a...
BETA PHOTO: The final 2 pitches of Cosmic Space Dust Lazers, a...
Parker leading the 2nd pitch.
Parker leading the 2nd pitch.
Top of the third pitch on a sunny March Day 2014
Top of the third pitch on a sunny March Day 2014
Andy coming up the first pitch.
Andy coming up the first pitch.
Toppin' the 2nd pitch
Toppin' the 2nd pitch
Andy topping out on the first pitch.
Andy topping out on the first pitch.
Night climbing was fun
Night climbing was fun

Comments on Cosmic Space Dust Lazers Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 21, 2014
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Apr 26, 2008

I did this today in two pitches. I took only sport draws and the rope drag was truly heinous as I started up the section above the belay ledge mentioned by Christian in the description. So much so that I didn't think I could make it to the top. I downclimbed a bit and belayed my partner up from the anchor mentioned by Christian, then continued to the top. A few longer runners at strategic bolts would no doubt help.

Christian shows a good eye on this route; fun, lots of easy climbing with a few short sections of somewhat harder moves. There is one bit that can't be more than 5.5 because of the huge handholds, but it is exposed and a tiny bit overhung and so is really a blast.

We got off in three rappels. The walk off is probably faster but my partner for the day hates walk offs.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Aug 5, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this route this morning in 3 pitches. Third pitch was the best, with the most difficult and interesting climbing. I don't think that this is a good route for beginners or people not comfortable leading harder than 5.8. There are a ton of large, loose, crumbly holds that if just pulled on the wrong way will come off. Be very careful when climbing this route if there are people on the routes below you.

Overall, I enjoyed this route and I'm glad I did it, but feel that Snatch and even Ledgorithm are better routes with less choss.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 7, 2008

Not a beginners route!
I grabbed several large holds right next to bolts and they completely fell apart in my hands. Too much loose rock above other popular climbs. We planned to do the rap off but again there were large death blocks right on the lip and we decided that we didn't want to risk it so we walked off.
I WILL say that you do achieve a pretty cool position for such a moderate route.And if you are experienced with loose climbs you can have a very enjoyable experience.
By Adam Wilson
From: Provo, UT
Aug 7, 2008

While I agree tat Cosmic Space Dust Lazers is not a gimme at the grade, I appreciated that adventure. The rock is a little crumbly, though no more than the classic lines on trilogy (Lord of the slings third pitch may now be an exception to that) and is reminiscent of the classic quartzite "down, not out" principle. There are no runouts, and all the anchors are bomber, so you don't have the pucker factor you get on climbs like Jungle Rot Slot or Banana Dreams.

I especially enjoyed that traverse at the beginning of pitch 2, (old pitch 1) which was not really hard, but awkward enough to keep things interesting. Also, there are many sections of steep climbing, of the sort you don't get on 5.8, but can exist because of the huge jugs everywhere. Fun and different moves from start to finish.

Like almost all Rock Canyon multi-pitch climbs, walking off is a smart idea. The walk of is easy and straightforward, and takes less time than rappelling.
By Aaron Child
Aug 15, 2008

Darren Knezek and I did this in May 2008 and split the last pitch into two pitches. Great route. Love the exposure.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
May 14, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Did this route again last night and boy has it cleaned up in the 3 years since I did it last! This might be my favorite of the multi pitch routes over here now. The second and third pitches are just plain fun; they're never too hard and when it gets steep, it also gets super juggy.
By Parker Alec Cross
From: Provo, UT
Jun 22, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

What's the story with the bolts leading up above the last pitch? I'm hearing rumors that this route is extended into 9 pitches? Just rumors, but I'd be interested in getting that beta, and I don't want to wait six more years for the Rock Canyon guide book to come out...
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Jun 22, 2011

Ask Christian at Mountainworks.
From: Austin, TX
Jul 8, 2011

I did this route about a year ago and then repeated it today to find that the rock has been cleaned considerably. Really fun climb now.
By Nathaniel Holt
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 5, 2011

This route is way fun! It is super awesome that it has been added to. Today I climbed 3 of the new pitches that have been added (didnt have time for the rest) all very fun. It was a bit dirty, so go climb it so it can get cleaned up some ;-)! One of my favorite routes and cant wait to finish the whole thing!
By Michael Davidson
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 16, 2011

Did the first six pitches this afternoon (12:30-3:15PM). At the top of the third pitch go left and then straight up a small meadow to two awkwardly high bolts that make up the anchor for the 4th pitch.

I heartily recommend every pitch except the 4th which, though short, is moss covered choss. The fourth and fifth are probably the hardest at 5.8 and 5.9, respectively. From the top of the sixth pitch the walk off is long, involving a significant northward traverse and climb to reach the ridge above trilogy buttress. From there you can descend the front face of squaw to the car or scree surf toward the base of this route. Instead, I recommend rappelling to the top of the third pitch, and walking off to the north per the original route's instruction.

I did not explore the remaining ~200 foot pinnacle for more bolts.
By Jason MT
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 21, 2012

I climbed all 9 pitches today and the new pitches are excellent. They are substantially harder than the first 3 so I wouldn't recommend them for 5.7/5.8 leaders.

To provide more info, I created a new route just for the extension. If anyone has anything to add/correct, or if the person who set the route wants this added into the CSDL route description, just let me know.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jun 22, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I climbed the full 9 pitches today and noticed that all of the pitch ratings listed here are considerably higher than what they felt like to me. Choss doesn't make a route technically harder... Here are my rating suggestions, plus bolt count:

Pitch 4 - 5.7 (6 bolts)
Pitch 5 - 5.8 (7 bolts)
Pitch 6 - 5.8 (8 bolts)
Pitch 7 - 4th class (1 bolt)
Pitch 8 - 5.6/5.7 (7 bolts)
Pitch 9 - 5.9 (10 bolts)

I did skip a bolt unintentionally on a couple pitches, so the bolt count might be off by 1. The last one might be 5.10a; it definitely is significantly harder and more sustained than the others.

Most of the pitches are short (60-80 feet, though pitches 2, 3, and 9 are longer), but the route does traverse a lot and go over a lot of ledges and stuff. When I do the route again, I don't think I'll combine any pitches.

I had a great time on this thing. I'd done the bottom three pitches probably 4 or 5 times, but going all the way to the top was a lot of fun. Rock Canyon has some stellar quartzite and limestone, but the routes over here on this side of the canyon are not on any of the good stuff. That's what makes these bolted multi-pitch routes so awesome; they're moderately graded, well bolted (not runout at all), and have an easy 10 minute approach, but the suspect rock gives them a real quality of adventure.

We walked off. Head east and then north. I went down the Trilogy Gully while my partner went further north around the Training Camp area. Either way takes only about half an hour. Rappelling this route would suck because of the loose stuff.

Finally, the route is west-facing and in the shade all morning. It was 94 degrees today but I was comfortable while climbing.
By Jason MT
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 13, 2012

I agree, choss doesn't make a route technically harder, but it does make it feel harder, especially if someone jumps on it who is climbing near the limit (my girlfriend is a 5.9 climber and had a heck of a time working through the last pitch.) My ratings are based on the idea that they will go down over time as the route cleans up, and I tried to keep them in line with rumors I had heard/read regarding difficulty. I'm certainly willing to reassess, though... I just wanted to throw the route up here since there was no solid beta for it on MP yet.

Cheers, and thanks for the input.
By Dashclimbsrocks
From: Orem, UT
Jul 15, 2013

Went back and did all of the extension this morning. Not impressed with the rock quality of the final two pitches. Final two pitches are still VERY dirty and adds a level of sketch to the person leading. 5.10a or b is probably an accurate grade for the final pitch. Pitch 4 is by far the worst of the whole line. It's incredibly dirty!

The last time I got on it (last month) there were two pitches (belay anchors for pitch 3 and 5) that were missing quick-links and had to leave bail biners to rap off on. They had quick links on them today. So thank you to whoever added those to the hangers.

This route is worth doing at least once, but the quality of the rock and the amount of effort to keep rock from rolling off ledges get a bit annoying.
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed the route yesterday - fantastic! Thanks to the FA for putting this route up, I enjoyed it emmensely - very adventurous!

I thought p9 was the scariest as far as crumbly rock goes.

All anchors were in good shape, there was only one anchor station that consisted of only hangers - all the others had quicklinks and/or large, oversized rappel rings.

p8 and p9 won't ever 'clean' up, the rock is simply too fractured and will continue to fracture with each freeze/thaw cycle. Just expect them to be tenuous and move carefully.

We walked off the west flank of Squaw, rappelling the route would be sketchy - simply too much potential to pull rocks down on your party each time you pull the rope. I'll pass on that prospect. Took 40 minutes to hike down to the parking lot, stopping occassionally to snap a handful of photos.

I pretty much agree with Tristan's pitch ratings, though I could feel good about rating p9 5.10-. I definitely don't think there were any .10b moves on any of the pitches.

The bolts on p8 were hard for me to pick out, I ended up skipping 2-3 of them just thinking it was runout. If you are on p8 considering a scary runout, look around more closely, move up a bit, there will be another bolt somewhere.
By vanman798
Aug 21, 2013

I've been up this a couple of times. The toughest part about it is that you can't fully trust the holds. I had several break off on me.

I think the ratings are exaggerated.

I'd go with this:

p4 = 5.7
p5 = 5.8
p6 = 5.8
p7 = 5.0
p8 = 5.7
p9 = 5.9+ (was a tough 5.9, but didn't quite feel like a 5.10)

P8 & 9 where both very very chossy, and the holds were not trustworthy even more so than the other pitches. Over all it is a fun "adventure" type climb.
By Casey Parker
Mar 16, 2014

Can this route be done with a 60m rope?
By Tim Moore
May 17, 2014

Not a good route at all. Sorry to bash on this but the rock is very loose, bolts are placed all over the place, rock drag is horrible, anchor placements are not good. I do not recommend this route at all for the average climber. I only suggest perhaps as a first Multi pitch climb this would be a good introduction but other than that do not do it. Plus the walk down is not good at all
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Aug 21, 2014

Wanting to move fast I linked pitches 2 and 3 w/ a 70, skipping a bunch of bolts on easy terrain and putting long, extended slings on all the bolts I did clip on P3. No rope drag.
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