|Type:||Sport, 6 pitches, 530'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jason MT on Jun 2, 2012|
|Comments on Cosmic Space Dust Lazers (extension)||Add Comment|
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By Tristan Higbee
Jun 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I climbed the full 9 pitches today and noticed that all of the pitch ratings listed here are considerably higher than what they felt like to me. Choss doesn't make a route technically harder... Here are my rating suggestions, plus bolt count:
Pitch 4 - 5.7 (6 bolts)
Pitch 5 - 5.8 (7 bolts)
Pitch 6 - 5.8 (8 bolts)
Pitch 7 - 4th class (1 bolt)
Pitch 8 - 5.6/5.7 (7 bolts)
Pitch 9 - 5.9 (10 bolts)
I did skip a bolt unintentionally on a couple pitches, so the bolt count might be off by 1. The last one might be 5.10a; it definitely is significantly harder and more sustained than the others.
Most of the pitches are short (60-80 feet, though pitches 2, 3, and 9 are longer), but the route does traverse a lot and go over a lot of ledges and stuff. When I do the route again, I don't think I'll combine any pitches.
I had a great time on this thing. I'd done the bottom three pitches probably 4 or 5 times, but going all the way to the top was a lot of fun. Rock Canyon has some stellar quartzite and limestone, but the routes over here on this side of the canyon are not on any of the good stuff. That's what makes these bolted multi-pitch routes so awesome; they're moderately graded, well bolted (not runout at all), and have an easy 10 minute approach, but the suspect rock gives them a real quality of adventure.
We walked off. Head east and then north. I went down the Trilogy Gully while my partner went further north around the Training Camp area. Either way takes only about half an hour. Rappelling this route would suck because of the loose stuff.
Finally, the route is west-facing and in the shade all morning. It was 94 degrees today but I was comfortable while climbing.
By Jason MT
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Sep 13, 2012
I agree, choss doesn't make a route technically harder, but it does make it feel harder, especially if someone jumps on it who is climbing near the limit (my girlfriend is a 5.9 climber and had a heck of a time working through the last pitch.) My ratings are based on the idea that they will go down over time as the route cleans up, and I tried to keep them in line with rumors I had heard/read regarding difficulty. I'm certainly willing to reassess, though... I just wanted to throw the route up here since there was no solid beta for it on MP yet.
Cheers, and thanks for the input.
From: Orem, UT
Jul 15, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Went back and did all of the extension this morning. Not impressed with the rock quality of the final two pitches. Final two pitches are still VERY dirty and adds a level of sketch to the person leading. 5.10a or b is probably an accurate grade for the final pitch. Pitch 4 is by far the worst of the whole line. It's incredibly dirty!
The last time I got on it (last month) there were two pitches (belay anchors for pitch 3 and 5) that were missing quick-links and had to leave bail biners to rap off on. They had quick links on them today. So thank you to whoever added those to the hangers.
This route is worth doing at least once, but the quality of the rock and the amount of effort to keep rock from rolling off ledges get a bit annoying.
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Climbed the route yesterday - fantastic! Thanks to the FA for putting this route up, I enjoyed it emmensely - very adventurous!
I thought p9 was the scariest as far as crumbly rock goes.
All anchors were in good shape, there was only one anchor station that consisted of only hangers - all the others had quicklinks and/or large, oversized rappel rings.
p8 and p9 won't ever 'clean' up, the rock is simply too fractured and will continue to fracture with each freeze/thaw cycle. Just expect them to be tenuous and move carefully.
We walked off the west flank of Squaw, rappelling the route would be sketchy - simply too much potential to pull rocks down on your party each time you pull the rope. I'll pass on that prospect. Took 40 minutes to hike down to the parking lot, stopping occassionally to snap a handful of photos.
I pretty much agree with Tristan's pitch ratings, though I could feel good about rating p9 5.10-. I definitely don't think there were any .10b moves on any of the pitches.
The bolts on p8 were hard for me to pick out, I ended up skipping 2-3 of them just thinking it was runout. If you are on p8 considering a scary runout, look around more closely, move up a bit, there will be another bolt somewhere.
Aug 21, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I've been up this a couple of times. The toughest part about it is that you can't fully trust the holds. I had several break off on me.
I think the ratings are exaggerated.
I'd go with this:
p4 = 5.7
p5 = 5.8
p6 = 5.8
p7 = 5.0
p8 = 5.7
p9 = 5.9+ (was a tough 5.9, but didn't quite feel like a 5.10)
P8 & 9 where both very very chossy, and the holds were not trustworthy even more so than the other pitches. Over all it is a fun "adventure" type climb.
By Tim Moore
May 17, 2014
|Not a good route at all. Sorry to bash on this but the rock is very loose, bolts are placed all over the place, rock drag is horrible, anchor placements are not good. I do not recommend this route at all for the average climber. I only suggest perhaps as a first Multi pitch climb this would be a good introduction but other than that do not do it. Plus the walk down is not good at all|