Cosmic Monsters 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Dave Quinn, 11/94 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on May 24, 2007 |
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James flashing the crux of Cosmic....
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Description A good first 5.12 for strong boulderers, as there is only one really hard move on the route and its pretty short. I have seen folks with little endurance fall from the top, so its not over till its over.
Climb up on to the ledge that is shared by the routes to the left, then move out slightly right and up passing a hard "boulder problem" at the second bolt, involving a big move from crimps to a positive hold that is better the farther right you get it. After that, follow better holds and an intermittent crack up the steep wall to the chains. If you are pumped at the top you can top out a little left of the chains then clip in while standing up top, most just clip from the good hold left of the chains (it has killer friction).
A good warm up for the much harder routes to the right.
Location The bolt line just left of the "V" groove of Heaven (5.11a)....
Protection 4 bolts to anchor.
James Otey on his flash attempt on Cosmic Monsters...
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Jakob as he casualy sends his first 5.12 on x-mas ...
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Jakob on Cosmic on X-mas eve day...
Photo by james...
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Jared at the last bolt...
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jared crimpin to get to the locks
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jared... cosmic...
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jeff near the top of Cosmic...
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jeff showing you how to clip the chains!
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the reason i love this route, fingerlock and a han...
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jeff at the start, looks like he means business!
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one more... jeff... climbing...
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Joe Kinder goofing around on Cosmic
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Joe on Cosmic
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sam owens sending his first 5.12 :)
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one more of sam on Cosmic
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| Comments on Cosmic Monsters |
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 19, 2010
| just added a video link if you are interested... |
By twellman
Oct 20, 2010
| Nice video, Lee. Reminds me how awkward getting up onto that first ledge is, haha. |
By S. Neoh
Oct 20, 2010
| Being small in size, getting onto the 1st ledge was not too bad for me but I got soundly whooped by the boulder problem crux shortly thereafter. Do I just need to "go big" to the obvious right hold off the small crimps in front of me? I remember the move being awkward and extremely frustrating for me. "V4? Somehow I do not think so!" was going thru my mind over and over again .... |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 21, 2010
| one of my smaller friends did the boulder problem crux really cool the other day... instead of lunging to the right hand hold she went up left in to an indistinct left hand hold in the crack then went all static out to the good hold.... might be harder than v4 but it was really smooth.... best shorty beta ive seen on it... |
By James Otey
From: NH
Oct 21, 2010
rating: 5.12a
| I have different beta for the crux as well. I get both the crimps you throw from, but instead of hucking, I get a high right foot and lockoff on the right crimp, crossing over to the jug statically. |
By S. Neoh
Sep 18, 2011
| Ran out of time and too buggy to get on this one today. Noticed draws on the last two bolts. Why? Did someone make off with someone else's lower project draw? |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 18, 2011
| the theory i came up with was that someone left those to warm up on the link up Heavenly Monsters but im not really sure... that would count as fixing draws on a 5.11 which i guess we arent supposed to do... |
By S. Neoh
Sep 19, 2011
| There might also be a random project draw on Heaven (in addition to the fixed ones it shares with a .14 route - All Day Slacker?). |
By Harrison Harb
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 28, 2012
| nice that this conversation is a year old and those two draws are still there today |
By Harrison Harb
From: Newmarket, NH
Nov 8, 2012
| i find that the obvious handjam post crux is a faux amis...the sharp two finger pocket above saved me |
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