Type: Sport
FA: Dave Quinn, 11/94
Page Views: 4,550 total · 22/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on May 24, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A good first 5.12 for strong boulderers, as there is only one really hard move on the route and its pretty short. I have seen folks with little endurance fall from the top, so its not over till its over.

Climb up on to the ledge that is shared by the routes to the left, then move out slightly right and up passing a hard "boulder problem" at the second bolt, involving a big move from crimps to a positive hold that is better the farther right you get it. After that, follow better holds and an intermittent crack up the steep wall to the chains. If you are pumped at the top you can top out a little left of the chains then clip in while standing up top, most just clip from the good hold left of the chains (it has killer friction).

A good warm up for the much harder routes to the right.
youtube.com/watch?v=rk7Pnyp…

Location Suggest change

The bolt line just left of the "V" groove of Heaven (5.11a)....

Protection Suggest change

4 bolts to anchor.

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