A good first 5.12 for strong boulderers, as there is only one really hard move on the route and its pretty short. I have seen folks with little endurance fall from the top, so its not over till its over.
Climb up on to the ledge that is shared by the routes to the left, then move out slightly right and up passing a hard "boulder problem" at the second bolt, involving a big move from crimps to a positive hold that is better the farther right you get it. After that, follow better holds and an intermittent crack up the steep wall to the chains. If you are pumped at the top you can top out a little left of the chains then clip in while standing up top, most just clip from the good hold left of the chains (it has killer friction).
A good warm up for the much harder routes to the right.
The bolt line just left of the "V" groove of Heaven (5.11a)....
Being small in size, getting onto the 1st ledge was not too bad for me but I got soundly whooped by the boulder problem crux shortly thereafter. Do I just need to "go big" to the obvious right hold off the small crimps in front of me? I remember the move being awkward and extremely frustrating for me. "V4? Somehow I do not think so!" was going thru my mind over and over again ....
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Oct 21, 2010
one of my smaller friends did the boulder problem crux really cool the other day... instead of lunging to the right hand hold she went up left in to an indistinct left hand hold in the crack then went all static out to the good hold.... might be harder than v4 but it was really smooth.... best shorty beta ive seen on it...
By James Otey From: NH Oct 21, 2010 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
I have different beta for the crux as well. I get both the crimps you throw from, but instead of hucking, I get a high right foot and lockoff on the right crimp, crossing over to the jug statically.
Ran out of time and too buggy to get on this one today. Noticed draws on the last two bolts. Why? Did someone make off with someone else's lower project draw?
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Sep 18, 2011
the theory i came up with was that someone left those to warm up on the link up Heavenly Monsters but im not really sure... that would count as fixing draws on a 5.11 which i guess we arent supposed to do...
if getting a high right foot feels awkward for the crux, i recommend dynoing from the crimps with your left foot on the slab near the undercling and hit the jug.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jul 9, 2014
Nice! i have been doing it that way lately too! wondered if anyone else did it that way... I love high feet... i only discovered the campus/dyno way because the foot was covered in ice and i still wanted to climb it haha