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|Submitted By:||mschlocker on Mar 27, 2008|
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|re: San Diego trip||Michael Nies||4 hours ago|
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|Comments on Corte Madera||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 3, 2009
|Now a new guide option is available. The Allied Climbers of San Diego have created a guide for El Cajon Mtn, Eagle Peak, and Corte Madera. It's quite a bit better than the SD climbing guide for Corte. I recommend you check it out at a local REI or better yet come to a member meeting. alliedclimbers.org .|
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 18, 2013
|For anyone planning on War Paint (5P 12a), a key hold broke off the start of the 3rd pitch (12a crux). It's likely now hard twelve at least and impossible to french free it (the first bolt is about 12 feet up or so.) Those inclined can skip the start by going up the 5.easy gully to the right and clipping the first bolt and swinging back in to do the super fun original crux.|
From: Encinitas, CA
Sep 25, 2013
|Any beta on the dirt road? How much ground clearance or can a Subaru make it?|
By Adam T.
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 6, 2013
|Hey Mannamedstan, a Subaru can definitely make it, but it will require a little bit of skilled driving. I personally wouldn't go for it, but my buddy Corey would eat it up. Definitely some large ruts and a few paint can sized boulders. We did it last month with a Toyota Tacoma pickup.|
From: San Diego, Ca
Nov 3, 2013
RE: the 4WD road over Los Pinos
It was not very bad at all IMO. No real skill at off-road driving needed. A bit bumpy and a few scattered rocks and ruts, but I think even a slow and measured 2WD vehicle with decent clearance could make it. Of course, different story if it's rained recently.
From the saddle down the Espinoza road is not bad, either, until right before (2 min walk) the use trail to the toe of the crag (S Buttress route).
By Dan G0D5H411
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jan 12, 2014
|Jeff is right about the first portion of the dirt road...probably could be done in a sedan if you know how navigate burms. The espinoza portion however was in really bad shape when we were there a couple of weeks ago. We were in a "sport" suv and ended up doing a 20 point turn to reverse our course after only a couple hundred yards down the road. Instead we opted to continue onto the higher parking area, hike to the top of the crag and rap in. The hike was 45 minutes, well-worn and fairly moderate in nature.|
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jan 6, 2015
Need some help with route identification as I don't have a guide for the area.
We drove down from northern Cali to sample some of the rock you guys have down there and climbed at El Cajon and Corte Madera for a few days last week.
At Corte Madera, not really knowing what we were getting on, we first climbed a route that starts out as thin slabby face with some solid .11+ moves to a tree where the route then followed a thin crack out left to the belay. Several mediocre and fairly contrived pitches after that lead to a big rotten overhanging arÍte (maybe .12a/b) with a big loose death block. I bailed off a bail biner that was left on that turd (didn't want to kill my belayer) and followed a short bolted and highly contrived route to the left that was easy stemming to basically the top, then took a weird, contrived hard right up a rotten kitty litter bulge past a bolt to the top. Anyone know what that route is called and want to add it to the Route DB if it's not already there.
Another route we climbed was near the center of the wall in kind of an alcove with lots of dirty cracks. It was like two short, well protected pitches (maybe low 5.10) to a good belay beneath a gear protected fist/chimney crack that turned into tight fingers up high and traversed left to another perfect hand crack (maybe .10a or .10b/c if you follow the finger crack too high). The next pitch was a tightly bolted face with a few lieback moves (maybe 5.11a/b) to a decent ledge. The final pitch was a short bouldery thing (maybe mid .10) to the top.
Both routes looked like they had pretty new bolts on em. The rest of the routes we climbed I found in the Routes DB, but these two I didn't see a description that I recognized. Anyone know what they're called and feel like adding them to the Routes DB? I can help you out as I have Administrative privileges but am not qualified to add things to this area as I'm not too familiar with it. It could use a more complete list of routes with better descriptions and some photos. I know you got em'. Upload your killer photos and make this area shine.
It's a great cliff and has some awesome climbing.
From: san diego
Jan 7, 2015
LOST MY DAMN SHOE on the 2nd pitch of what I think was sunset streaks.
it's a very small sized moccasym vcs.
please email me if you find it, or drop it off at mesa rim!
i work there. :) thanks!