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 ADVANCED
a. The Uberfall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
69 
Apoplexy 
BB Route 
Birthday Biscuit Boy 
Black Fly 
Boston 
Brat Direct, The 
Bridal Path 
Bunny 
CC Route 
Charie 
Clover 
Coronary 
Crimson Corner 
Das Wiggles 
DD Route 
Dirty Chimney 
Dirty Gerdie 
Double Chin 
Double Clutch 
Easy Keyhole 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The 
Eyebrow 
Eyesore 
Fancy Idiot 
Fitschen's Folly 
Flake, The 
Handy Andy 
Harvard 
Heel Hook and Hack-it 
Herdie Gerdie 
Horseman 
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang 
Jacob's Ladder 
Junior 
Katzenjammer 
Ken's Crack 
Keyhole 
Laurel 
Low Exposure 
Lower Eaves 
Mitty Mouse  
Nice 5.9 Climb 
Nice Crack Climb 
No Picnic 
No Solution 
Nosedive 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) 
Phoebe 
Red Cabbage 
Red Cabbage Right 
Retribution 
Rhododendron 
Shit or Go Blind 
Short Job 
Sonja 
Squiggles 
Squiggles Direct 
Stupid Crack 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation 
Sudoriferous 
Susie A 
Trapped Like a Rat 
Uberfall Descent 
Walter Mitty 
Unsorted Routes:

Coronary 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Kolocotronis, 1973
Page Views: 1,677
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 10, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Mark Mooradian somewhere in the hard part.
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Description 

This is a fun TR but scary for those who lead it. The first fifty feet are R/X rated on small and very pumpy crimpers.

Start 15' right of Horseman, just right of Apoplexy and climb a very thin vertical seam and a virtually blank face to the right-facing corner up above to the double-bolt anchor.


Location 

The Uberfall area


Protection 

Don't bother!



Photos of Coronary Slideshow Add Photo
gear on the lower half
BETA PHOTO: gear on the lower half
Comments on Coronary Add Comment
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By Denis O'Connor
May 13, 2009

The protection is not all that bad. It's comparable to Apoplexy (photo above). The first two placements are the same as Apoplexy, the next one is a shaky sideways stopper that might be useless, and the one above that is what I thought (hoped?) was a pretty good C3 placement. There is a long runout above that cam, but the moves get easier the higher you go.

That's not to say it wouldn't be scary to onsight it (I didn't dare), but it is leadable.

By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R

^^^^^
Well, I did lead it onsight. The first two placements are not on Apoplexy. They are in the same horizontal, but directly below the super thin crack. The protection through the crux is poor to non-existent. I got a #1 or #2 BD micro nut in before the sequence, but it wouldn't be worth much more than a hang. If you blew it going through the crux you would most likely deck from 25+ feet.

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Mar 21, 2011

I tr'd this after leading apoplexy, couldn't imagine leading it untill the top sections after the face climbing. crux was definitely low and the near the top is amazing, if there was more placements for pro it would definitely be a classic.

By Gunkiemike
Apr 22, 2012

A favorite variation of mine is to start on Apoplexy, do the scary flake, then angle rightwards to hit Coronary above its crux. The upper corners of Coronary are terrific to lead, in the 5.7 or 8 range I think. And it's a straight shot to the bolts this way.

By Dana Bartlett
From: CT
Apr 24, 2012

The protection is not all that bad.

I lead this on sight; the protection is all that bad. Protection comparable to Apoplexy? That's a joke.

By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 18, 2012

Very sequency at the crux. Would be a super stiff onsight.

By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
May 29, 2013

Apoplexy is a well protected climb. Coronary is NOT. It is however a great climb to TR after leading Apoplexy. Great thin crimpy face climbing to some easier corner climbing above. I like that chunky conglomerate rock near the top. No way would I lead this.