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Hawk's Nest
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Coronary 
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No Fruit Please 
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Ramp (a.k.a. "The Slab"), The 
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Walpurgisnacht Direct 
Yellow Pages 

Coronary 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 922
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Jun 10, 2003
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Okay- now Jerry is up into the upper moves of Coro...

Description 

Coronary is found at Hawk's Nest just above the giant 20-ft high boulder. Start on the east side of the boulder and climb up the corner made by the wall and boulder. Stand on top of the boulder, place a stopper to your right, and slither over to the ledge about 5 feet right. Scrape out a mantel to gain this ledge, then head up and slightly left following the protruding rock (enjoy the exposure!) to the shallow dihedral. Aim for the pine tree above and finish out this nice climb.


Protection 

Standard Rack for lead. For Top Rope setup go up Leaning Tower Gully and turn left. Walk west about one hundred feet. Look for a short rock/mortar wall. Jump over the wall and descend the small gully to the tree on the left. Anchor your rope so it hangs down to the right of the tree.



Photos of Coronary Slideshow Add Photo
Jerry Wingenter leads Coronary but takes the better variation to the start.  Climbing the first moves of Charybdis (and clipping the fixed pin) then moving left towards the ramps and ledges below the meat of Coronary.  Better start I think because it protects well and involves a nice mantle.
Jerry Wingenter leads Coronary but takes the bette...
Coronary starts at the top of the dihedral (walkup or climb) at left and follows the protruding section to a shallow dihedral.
BETA PHOTO: Coronary starts at the top of the dihedral (walkup...
Jerry again on Coronary.  This time he is just below the funky flake.
Jerry again on Coronary. This time he is just bel...
If you compare this photo to Burt's photos of Jerry, you can see the big block that came off, just left of the overhang where Lewis is standing. <br /> <br />And Jerry had gear behind that block!
If you compare this photo to Burt's photos of Jerr...
Comments on Coronary Add Comment
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By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 2, 2010

I see someone (or it may have ejected on its own?) finally disposed of the large loose block at the midway point on this route. The route is now much safer and I don't think the overall difficulty has changed. It changes the character of the route though for sure.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Nov 14, 2011

An alternate (and better) start is to climb the first half of "Scylla." See Burt & Jerry's photos.