Cornholio  5.7+

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 210 feet Consensus:  5.7+ [details] FA:  ??? New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  NickMartel on Oct 24, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Racked up and ready to push into the unknown on wh...

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Closed to climbing, Feb 1 - Aug 31 MORE INFO >>> This area is closed between February 1 and August 31 for nesting peregrine falcons. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

3 (or 2) Pitch route. Wear Helmets!

Pitch 1: 90', takes either "Bevis" or "Butthead" to the chains, B/C.

Pitch 2: 30-35', heads left along the belay ledge then up and right via a low angle ramp. Once 7-10' above the belay step right around the bulge (exposed but easy)to a small dihedral and climb face just right of crack/small right facing dihedral to belay ledge with 7-8" diameter tree for an anchor, Trad. When stepping onto the 2ed belay ledge be very careful not to pull on the completely disconnected death flake (we would trundle but it would have hit our stuff/belay ledge/ hangers on P1/ and might not have stopped before the road. There is a good bit of smaller loose rocks on the ledge too not much in the area where you sit/stand but a couple feet to the left. You can link this to pitch 1 but you CAN NOT rap to the ground from the tree with a 60m rope.

Pitch 3: 95', heads to the summit via easy climbing (4th class-5.5). You can make it harder if you want through your route selection. Sling a boulder or horn to rap back down to tree or walk/scramble (and maybe short raps) to the north/west. We rapped the route. If you really wanted to you could also link pitches 2 and 3 but splitting them up makes communicating and rope drag much better as from the chains at the top of pitch 1 you can't see the tree at the top of pitch 2 or the lower half of pitch 3. So if you want to link pitches link pitch 1 and 2.

Location 

Starts on "Bevis" or "Butthead", which are the 2ed and 3ed bolted routes from the right.

Protection 

Pitch 1 ("Bevis" or "Butthead") 6 bolts and chain anchors and an extra pair of cold shuts. Pitch 2- nuts/cams/hexes/sling for tree. Pitch 3 nuts/cams/hexes/sling for boulder/big flake/horn.

Photos of Cornholio Slideshow

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Kristina ready to follow on the potential FA of "C...	BETA PHOTO: The left side of the tree belay ledge at the top o...	The highway from the 2ed belay (tree) ledge.
Kristina and I on the 2ed belay ledge (tree) with ...