Find the Mental Block and two good holds on a rail just left of Mental Standard. Crank up right to the crack, then left to the triangular edge. Grab the fingerlock in the corner and crank to the top. Easiest topout on the Mental Block, at the third block on the left, reach above for a decent edge and haul yourself up to stop yourself from quivering.
Variations I have yet to crank through: 1. Left to crack and crank direct right to fingerlock 2. Undercling above the rail - below the crack and skip the fingerlock.
One of nicest landings at the Mental Block, but with height and overhanging nature it's nice to have a pad and a spot.
About to pull from the crack to the good incut.
Setting up for the Cornerlock. A classic Gill V4.
|By Sean Bradley|
Oct 29, 2001
Try the corner lock dyno, it starts on the obvious hand holds at about shoulder level, then goes to the top of the boulder. I'm not sure what its rated, but its harder, and definatly more exicting.