Take the slab to a large corner to the left of KeeMoSabe. The anchor was placed high on the roof above to provide a clear drop for the rope. Reach the anchor by holding on to the draw below the roof. There are no holds for clipping otherwise. With the draw in place this is an easy clip. Excellent quality rock on this moderate line.
QDs only. This 75 foot route needs 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
A little philosophical digression on clips off the deck - I would agree that the clips off the deck on this route are not needed by folks climbing in double digits. In putting in the bolts, I'm constantly debating the appropriateness of placing fixed hardware. Personally, I have adopted the philosophy that the route should be constructed for the person who is leading at their limit at grade of the climb. But, God Only Knows whether this is a reasonable philosophy or not; so help me here, please. If I prepared the climb just for myself, then it would look very different; I have even bolted one or two routes ropeless with nothing but hooks, a couple of camming units, and a pair of slings; this is solo territory for someone who almost never does it anymore. However, even on climbs of this moderate nature, I have watched truly terrifying epics unfold, and this usually represents someone getting started on the lead or moving up a grade or two. Twenty years ago, we approached climbing a little differently than the way it is done today. We would seek out the easiest things that would get us started at a given grade, all on trad, and the more difficult routes would await for our skill to catch up. While that is not a lot different from what we all do today, we also have a hugely burgeoning group of moderate climbers with no interest in radical mind control but an interest in climbing close to their limit and on a route that is as reasonably safe as can be achieved. We do not have to put up routes for this group of people, however, if you look at what is being climbed at nearly any area, then these moderate routes will invariably have parties on them, with the gorgeous difficult climbs on the same cliffs sitting untouched. Personally, I believe that we have room for all types of climbers and so some routes get established for moderate or first-time leaders.
Nice comment Richard. There are many of us in that group of people wanting to push ourselves but in reasonable safety that you mentioned, and I for one appreciate when routes are well protected. Those who do not want (or need) all of these bolts of course can just skip some, in the same manner that people often run out "easy" sections of a crack (which could be protected anywhere).
This is a really fun route. I do it every time I climb at Scout. I agree that the lower bolts are justified for someone leading at the 5.9 level. Double digit leaders should try a no-hang clip at the anchors for an added challenge.
Regarding the comments about the lower bolts - I think that bolted routes should be constructed in such a manner as to provide the highest degree of safety that is reasonable for that grade of climbing. While risk seems to be an intrinsic part of the climbing game, not everyone likes to take big risks, and I certainly don't like the thought of climbing something where a long fall to the deck before clipping the first bolt is a real possibility. I don't have any problems with little run outs higher up on a climb where a fall is most likely just going to produce a little road rash (no pain no gain) but serious groundfall potential on sport routes shouldn't ever be an issue. Of course I suppose it's ultimately up to the person putting up the route on how 'safe' he/she want to make it.
If your a 5.9 climber, don't clip every bolt, unless you need to train your quickdraw handling skills. You can clip the first bolt on the slab then every other one and still be very safe. If your new to the sport, clip them all and have a safety good time!
Felt as hard as Tonto. The corner is off-width/big fist so feels hard for the inexperienced cracker.
By Nathan Welton From: Estes Park, CO Mar 10, 2012 rating: 5.7+5a15V+13MVS 4b
I don't have a problem with the bottom bolts -- they're fine & they make the line safe for the grade (despite this part being 5.2 and climbable without hands). However, what is up with the anchor bolts? Blow the clip with an armful of rope and you'll hit a ledge. Or be safe and clip them by yanking on the draw below them? Huh?
Very fun route, highly recommended. More so than KeeMoSabe perhaps? Ok, perhaps not more fun without some crack climbing skills. Bolts seem to be where you need them.
The flakes to the left of the corner aren't that solid. Hence my folly in not tapping them, because today I fell when grabbing one of them. Sent a huge piece down the slab, fortunately nothing bad happened below. Just a reminder to me to check the rock and some lost skin.
Note: for lowering, I unclipped the draw below the anchor (the one you hang on to clip the anchor) to avoid rope drag.