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 ADVANCED
Main Rock
Select Route:
Big Tuna S 
Corner Route S,TR 
Courtney S 
Holy Mackerel S 
Hot Tuna S 
Left Slab S,TR 
Naked and Disfigured S,TR 
Pelicans S,TR 
Sex Porpoises S 
Sharky's Machine TR 
Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 
Wet Dreams S 

Corner Route 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,973
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jan 19, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Description 

Climb the corner on the main face of Mickey's Beach's North Face. This route is the second bolted route from the left, and climbs the slab up into the corner.

The section before the first bolt it quite run out but not too difficult, and the section after the last bolt is also.

There are always people on this route, so don't anticipate being able to warm up on it without having to wait a little bit!

Protection 

3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.


Photos of Corner Route Slideshow Add Photo
It's tricky all the way after the first bolt.
It's tricky all the way after the first bolt.
Naoko moving through the crux.  Looks like another...
Naoko moving through the crux. Looks like another...
Starting the runout to the top. Be prepared for di...
Starting the runout to the top. Be prepared for di...
Paul moving through the crux.  Looks kind of famil...
Paul moving through the crux. Looks kind of famil...
Brad moving through the crux.  Looks kind of famil...
Brad moving through the crux. Looks kind of famil...
Leading Corner Route at Mickey's Beach.
Leading Corner Route at Mickey's Beach.

Comments on Corner Route Add Comment
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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
May 12, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Just returned to try and lead some of the routes I toproped about a month ago. The 3 bolts on this route are spaced close enough to be safe but far enough apart to make it pretty exciting! This really is a good route. Doesn't look it from the ground but there are some great moves to figure out!
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Nov 14, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

A very fun variation of the Corner Route is the Corner Route without the Corner. Simply climb the Corner Route from the ground to top without using any holds in the corner seam or anything to the left of the corner seam.This route could probably be led quite safely using the 3 bolts of Corner Route as the harder moves are very close to the second and third bolts. Start a bit right of the easy Corner Route start. Easier climbing gets you up to the first bolt and then you will find a few difficult, balancy face moves to get up to the downward facing flake. From the flake, easier ground gets you to the top. This variation seems almost as hard as Slab Route so it may be 11a/b.

A further variation is heading up right of this route by several feet. Once gaining a good stance where Walkin' A Thin Line bears right about 15 off of the ground, climb straight up reaching an obvious 4 in by 16 in ledge. From this go straight up. I haven't finished this yet as it blanks out but I think it will go.
By Brad Allender
From: Alameda, CA
Nov 14, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Just for info, the main handhold at the crux just past the second bolt is really loose.Its been loose since i first climbed there 5 years ago, but this time it seemed to shift about half an inch to the left. Be careful.
By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jun 11, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Had a fun day up at the Main Rock yesterday. Been awhile... Saw that lots of chalk was on the variation I mentioned above that goes up about 6-7' right of the actual corner of Corner Route. Turns out to be a bunch of VERY thin moves (using tiny feet instead of hard crimpy hands) all the way to topping out. Probably 11a or so. Fun to do since you probably have a TR setup anyway.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Aug 2, 2006

I've tried several variations too. One that is cool with a TR is to start Walkin A Thin Line and then go into the Corner Route. That way you get a little more length as well as cutting out the simplistic start. Also, that flexing hold is still hanging on. I've been leading it without that hold because I know it's gonna pop off one of these days anyway. Actually, while seeming really good, it is a sucker hold because you want to go left at that point. That's my take.
By Jeff Dopp
From: Goodlettsville, TN
Nov 12, 2009

Eric Brand and I bolted this route around the same time that we did Walkin a Thin Line (mid 80s).