|4,855 page views|
The line follows the right facing dihedral to the notch between the first and second tombstones.Start below and to the right of the dihedral in a 3 inch wide horizontal crack. A 5.8 traverse to a drilled 2 pin, chain anchor. (Pitch 2) Continue up the dihedral in a 4 inch wide 5.7 low angle crack to a four bolt belay. (Pitch 3) Excellent fingers and tricky stemming to a drilled pin belay make this the best 5.10+ pitch in the canyon. (Pitch 4) More fun wide crack (5.9) to a three pin belay. (Pitch 5) Splitter 5.12 fingers and tough stemming to bolts in the notch.
Standard desert rack up to 4 inches, extra .5 and .75 for the third and fifth pitches.
Mark Tjaden leading the Pitch 1 traverse
the end of Pitch 2
Dan Russell high on Pitch 3
This is a picture from the parking
The view from the anchor at pitch 1
Aaron leading pitch 3 and 4
The 5.12- crux pitch
BETA PHOTO: This is the 5th pitch 5.12- on the Corner Route.
"A" following the last pitch-splitter!
BETA PHOTO: Topo.
Oct 16, 2004
Rack suggestion: 2x blue and yellow TCUs2x #1 - 3 Friends with extra #1.75 and #21x #3.5 - #4 Camalot for the first pitch hand traverse1x #4.5 Camalot
It would be a shame to skip the "sandy" first pitch hand traverse for a C1 pin ladder. One 60m rope will get you down.
|By Vince MacMillan|
From: Dolores, CO
Apr 24, 2005
A Few Random Comments on the Corner Route:1. The traverse is a 'must-do,' in my book.2. One 60meter rope will get you up and down, though the second rappel is about 30.5 meters and requires an arm stretch to the anchors. A final 30 meter rappel would then land you on a 'down-climbable' pillar. 3. Pitch 3 and Pitch 4, as designated above, can be combined into one long, wild, varied pitch that goes from fists to thin hands to tips to thin hands to off-width and even has a few finger locks in between. (5.10++). Woohoo! I.e. just bypass that schmanky-looking hanging belay. 4. There is a really scary table-sized flake at the 'Pitch 4' anchors(aka 2nd rap station). Be careful when belaying and rapping.5. This puppy is a solar collector in the afternoon. 6. I think I would add a few more small pieces (for Pitch 3)and a few more large pieces (For Pitch 4) to Joe's gear suggestion. I sure did't feel comfortable running it out with that piss-yellow rock on the left above 'Pitch 2'. Although you could always use your fingernails to make the placements a little larger if you were running short on small gear.7. That last bit was a joke: unwad your panties. The rock is of Very poor quality in places though, so. . . .8. Notice that I didn't mention anything about the final pitch? I didn't getup it, but I would suggest: less beer and more pull-ups. At least that's what I tell myself and I am almost starting to believe it. You might be able to get away with substituting a set of etriers if the thought of 'less beer' is too scary to contemplate. 9. Lastly, climbing this on a spring weekend is like going to the monkey house at the zoo, only you are the one behind the glass. Traffic, dust, noise, and a non-stop stream of gawkers and near-miss accidents will be sure to make your day interesting. I, personally, prefer to be spanked in private.
May 5, 2006
I would highly recommend this superb route. Mostly moderate climbing and only a couple minutes from the car, it's a wonder this route doesn't get done more often. The traversing first pitch is really fun and should definitely not be by-passed for the lame bolt ladder. The third and fourth pitches link up nicely for one of the better 5.10+ pitches around. The crux pitch is very reasonable, with only a short section of 5.12; very onsightable. One #4 Camalot is plently and you don't need anything larger. Considering the good rock quality, fun climbing and easy access, this climb is one of the best in the Moab area.
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Dec 2, 2006
Killer Route!! The 10+ and 12- pitches are well worth the sketchy first pitch. A double set from #.5-#3.5 Friends, plus (one each) extra #1, #1.5, #2 Friends (for crux), one #5 Friend (top of 10+ pitch) would be nice and one set of nuts will suffice for most leaders. Three #4 Friends would be comforting for the "sharp on both ends" first pitch.
If anyone comes across a #3.5 Friend (rigid, old-style) possibly left somewhere on the route or at the base during an October 2006 ascent...Its mine. Cheers, AlexShainman@hotmail.com
|By Skyler Penrod|
Nov 11, 2008
If you have the gas I would recommend combining pitches 3&4. The belay in between is in definite need of a new bolt. My buddy and I just did this on 11/9/08. Great route.
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 11, 2011
The P1 traverse is cool in a "desert tower" way, P3 and P5 are just cool period. Agree that linking P3 and P4 is a good move. Great route!
|By Jason Lantz|
Jun 15, 2011
With a little savvy rope management you can do it in two....