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 ADVANCED
The Cirque of the Climbables (aka The Tombstone)
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Corner Route 
Deep Voodoo 
For Desert Rats Only 
I Dream of Jeannie 
Playing Hooky 

Corner Route 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jimmy Dunn, Kevin Chase
Page Views: 5,397
Submitted By: Brian Shelton on Mar 28, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: This is the 5th pitch 5.12- on the Corner Route.

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Description 

The line follows the right facing dihedral to the notch between the first and second tombstones.Start below and to the right of the dihedral in a 3 inch wide horizontal crack. A 5.8 traverse to a drilled 2 pin, chain anchor. (Pitch 2) Continue up the dihedral in a 4 inch wide 5.7 low angle crack to a four bolt belay. (Pitch 3) Excellent fingers and tricky stemming to a drilled pin belay make this the best 5.10+ pitch in the canyon. (Pitch 4) More fun wide crack (5.9) to a three pin belay. (Pitch 5) Splitter 5.12 fingers and tough stemming to bolts in the notch.


Protection 

Standard desert rack up to 4 inches, extra .5 and .75 for the third and fifth pitches.



Photos of Corner Route Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 3
Pitch 3
Pitch 1
Pitch 1
Aaron leading pitch 3 and 4
Aaron leading pitch 3 and 4
Pitch 2
Pitch 2
"A" following the last pitch-splitter!
"A" following the last pitch-splitter!
Mark Tjaden leading the Pitch 1 traverse
Mark Tjaden leading the Pitch 1 traverse
The view from the anchor at pitch 1
The view from the anchor at pitch 1
the end of Pitch 2
the end of Pitch 2
The 5.12- crux pitch
The 5.12- crux pitch
Dan Russell high on Pitch 3
Dan Russell high on Pitch 3
This is a picture from the parking
This is a picture from the parking
Topo.
BETA PHOTO: Topo.
Comments on Corner Route Add Comment
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By beerdrinker
Oct 16, 2004

Rack suggestion: 2x blue and yellow TCUs2x #1 - 3 Friends with extra #1.75 and #21x #3.5 - #4 Camalot for the first pitch hand traverse1x #4.5 Camalot

It would be a shame to skip the "sandy" first pitch hand traverse for a C1 pin ladder. One 60m rope will get you down.

By Vince MacMillan
From: Dolores, CO
Apr 24, 2005

A Few Random Comments on the Corner Route:1. The traverse is a 'must-do,' in my book.2. One 60meter rope will get you up and down, though the second rappel is about 30.5 meters and requires an arm stretch to the anchors. A final 30 meter rappel would then land you on a 'down-climbable' pillar. 3. Pitch 3 and Pitch 4, as designated above, can be combined into one long, wild, varied pitch that goes from fists to thin hands to tips to thin hands to off-width and even has a few finger locks in between. (5.10++). Woohoo! I.e. just bypass that schmanky-looking hanging belay. 4. There is a really scary table-sized flake at the 'Pitch 4' anchors(aka 2nd rap station). Be careful when belaying and rapping.5. This puppy is a solar collector in the afternoon. 6. I think I would add a few more small pieces (for Pitch 3)and a few more large pieces (For Pitch 4) to Joe's gear suggestion. I sure did't feel comfortable running it out with that piss-yellow rock on the left above 'Pitch 2'. Although you could always use your fingernails to make the placements a little larger if you were running short on small gear.7. That last bit was a joke: unwad your panties. The rock is of Very poor quality in places though, so. . . .8. Notice that I didn't mention anything about the final pitch? I didn't getup it, but I would suggest: less beer and more pull-ups. At least that's what I tell myself and I am almost starting to believe it. You might be able to get away with substituting a set of etriers if the thought of 'less beer' is too scary to contemplate. 9. Lastly, climbing this on a spring weekend is like going to the monkey house at the zoo, only you are the one behind the glass. Traffic, dust, noise, and a non-stop stream of gawkers and near-miss accidents will be sure to make your day interesting. I, personally, prefer to be spanked in private.

By Max
May 5, 2006

I would highly recommend this superb route. Mostly moderate climbing and only a couple minutes from the car, it's a wonder this route doesn't get done more often. The traversing first pitch is really fun and should definitely not be by-passed for the lame bolt ladder. The third and fourth pitches link up nicely for one of the better 5.10+ pitches around. The crux pitch is very reasonable, with only a short section of 5.12; very onsightable. One #4 Camalot is plently and you don't need anything larger. Considering the good rock quality, fun climbing and easy access, this climb is one of the best in the Moab area.

By Alex Shainman
From: the best place right now!
Dec 2, 2006

Killer Route!! The 10+ and 12- pitches are well worth the sketchy first pitch. A double set from #.5-#3.5 Friends, plus (one each) extra #1, #1.5, #2 Friends (for crux), one #5 Friend (top of 10+ pitch) would be nice and one set of nuts will suffice for most leaders. Three #4 Friends would be comforting for the "sharp on both ends" first pitch.

If anyone comes across a #3.5 Friend (rigid, old-style) possibly left somewhere on the route or at the base during an October 2006 ascent...Its mine. Cheers, AlexShainman@hotmail.com

By Skyler Penrod
Nov 11, 2008

If you have the gas I would recommend combining pitches 3&4. The belay in between is in definite need of a new bolt. My buddy and I just did this on 11/9/08. Great route.

By eDixon
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 11, 2011

The P1 traverse is cool in a "desert tower" way, P3 and P5 are just cool period. Agree that linking P3 and P4 is a good move. Great route!

By Jason Lantz
Jun 15, 2011

With a little savvy rope management you can do it in two....