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Corn Flakes 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Robert Oravetz, Eric Barrett, Dave Stam, 1977.
Page Views: 1,247
Submitted By: Blitzo on Jan 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Nearing the end of the crack about to deal with th...

Description 

Climb the flake to the right of "Lean and Mean", then face climb to the roof. Move left and follow "Lean and Mean".

A good route. There was a bat in the crack last time I did it.


Protection 

Pro to 2".



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top roping corn flakes
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By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 18, 2007

A 3" cam protects the start, which is burlier and more tenuous than I thought it'd be. The first 12 feet were the crux for me.

By Ol' Toby
From: WA
Feb 8, 2009

The direct/variation start to the right up the very thin lieback flake is excellent. A single set of aliens protects it well. Great afternoon light.

By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 14, 2009

Actually, a 3" cam doesn't protect the start (although I suppose it depends on how tall you are/how high you can reach). After trying to do the move off the deck unprotected (start of the crux imo with a possible long nasty fall down the hill), I decided to put in a piece first, but I had to use a #4. The 3 can go in a bit higher.

I felt the thin start variation sucked compared to the wide start. Way easier, not as thought-provoking. Really small gear required, but the flake is so hollow I'm not sure it would hold a fall.

I heard someone call the wide flake start a "hand crack." I had to lie it back. Even for someone with big hands, jamming would be awkward I would imagine.

I also found this route to be sooo much better/more satisfying than Lean and Mean.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Dec 10, 2011

Very moderate lie backing leads to a what I thought was a slightly tenuous face finish.

By Kyle Townsend
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 1, 2012

Fist jams to lieback, start protects well with a 3-4 inch cam. Tech face finish makes a nice finale! Can go right or left to fixed anchors once at the roof. Right variation is nice too and protects fine with thinner gear.

By Riley McDonald
Nov 7, 2013

Watch out on the first 15-ish feet of the right variation. The obvious hole in the flake can be threaded, but cams behind the flake likely will not hold a fall. The thing sounds like a gong when you slap it...