Corn Flakes 5.9
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| Type: | Trad |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Robert Oravetz, Eric Barrett, Dave Stam, 1977. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Jan 20, 2007 |
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Nearing the end of the crack about to deal with th...
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Description Climb the flake to the right of "Lean and Mean", then face climb to the roof. Move left and follow "Lean and Mean". A good route. There was a bat in the crack last time I did it.
Protection Pro to 2".
By Sirius From: Oakland, CA Nov 18, 2007
| A 3" cam protects the start, which is burlier and more tenuous than I thought it'd be. The first 12 feet were the crux for me. |
By Ol' Toby From: CO Feb 8, 2009
| The direct/variation start to the right up the very thin lieback flake is excellent. A single set of aliens protects it well. Great afternoon light. |
By Aerili From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 14, 2009
| Actually, a 3" cam doesn't protect the start (although I suppose it depends on how tall you are/how high you can reach). After trying to do the move off the deck unprotected (start of the crux imo with a possible long nasty fall down the hill), I decided to put in a piece first, but I had to use a #4. The 3 can go in a bit higher. I felt the thin start variation sucked compared to the wide start. Way easier, not as thought-provoking. Really small gear required, but the flake is so hollow I'm not sure it would hold a fall. I heard someone call the wide flake start a "hand crack." I had to lie it back. Even for someone with big hands, jamming would be awkward I would imagine. I also found this route to be sooo much better/more satisfying than Lean and Mean. |
By Colonel Mustard From: Reno, NV Dec 10, 2011
| Very moderate lie backing leads to a what I thought was a slightly tenuous face finish. |
By Kyle Townsend From: Oakland, CA Nov 1, 2012
| Fist jams to lieback, start protects well with a 3-4 inch cam. Tech face finish makes a nice finale! Can go right or left to fixed anchors once at the roof. Right variation is nice too and protects fine with thinner gear. |
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