Corinthian Column  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 550 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Chip Salaun & Carl Harrison Submitted By:  Erik Corkran on Jun 21, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

The route described here is a variation of the route described by Rossiter, noted where this route breaks off from the main. At least four chimney systems run up the Bookend left of the Foxhead. This route starts between the 3rd and 4th (from left).

P1. Start left of the Sicilian Defense chimney in either of two flared cracks (we took the left, and I believe the guidebook route avoids these by working in from the right). Climb to the base of another flared crack (again there are two, and we took the right this time, which seemed more protectable). Continue up the flared handcrack (bring stoppers especially for the top), go left at its end to the base of a large chimney (good belay, hand/fist cams useful here). 5.9, 120ft.

P2. Climb the chimney/crack, fun and generally easier than it looks. Belay at a large ledge (end of chimney, big pieces useful for comfortable belay).

P3. Move the belay 20 or 30 feet to a stance in the Pinch chimney (belaying here on P2 probably difficult due to rope drag). Here we took a variation and climbed the Pinch chimney, mostly because it looked like fun (the crack on the right wall, standard pitch looked less appealing, but maybe it is nice). 5.8, 140ft or so to a good ledge. Again save a few hand and larger pieces for the belay.

P4. Go up a little and right along a big ledge to a hand crack that stops about 5 feet off the ledge. Climb the crack, which quickly becomes very low angle, and continue to the top of the formation. The crack mentioned here puts you back onto the regular route.

P5. Walk across to the main wall (hard to describe but obvious when you are there) and jump or climb to the final section of the Bookend. About 150 feet of low fifth class rock gets you to the top.

Protection 

Cams and stoppers, size to a #4 Camalot. An extra fist or larger piece or two is useful for belays also.

Photos of Corinthian Column Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: West face of the Bookend.