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 ADVANCED
Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alfredo Marciel S 
As de Espadas S 
Cavalo Louco T 
Chamine Stop T,S 
Coringa S 
Costao S 
Lagartao T,S 
Revolta dos Gravatás T 
Secundo Costa Neto T,S 
Via do Totem T,S 
Via dos Italianos S 
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Coringa 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 330', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Guiseppe Pellegrini, Paulo 'Bruxo' Ferreira, Denise Emmer
Season: All year.
Page Views: 913
Submitted By: Matt Othmer on Apr 7, 2012  with updates from Cedric B

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BETA PHOTO: Susannah climbing the first long pitch... I brough...

Description 

A great short moderate slab climb up the south face of Pao de Acucar. From the summit you can descend or continue up on Costao.

I would recommend bringing a 60 m rope. I brought a 57ish meter rope that was barely long enough for the first pitch.

The route is 2-3 pitches. It's all fairly straightforward 5.6 slab climbing, with a few short vertical moves.

The last two pitches can easily be combined as they are short, but many guiding groups break them up into two pitches since they are a bit tricky, and communication is difficult if done in one pitch.

The last belay is a body belay, or you can tie off a boulder.

Location 

On the far east edge of the south face of Pao de Acucar. It is the second obvious line from the right. Access via climbers trail from 1.15 km on paved trail. Break right at the top of the hill.

Protection 

12 draws with a couple long runners.


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