cordolette, webbolette, equilolette and so on...
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I am a beginner and just getting into the sport, and while i know i need to go climb with a experienced climber i was just trying to find some reading material for when I'm not climbing. |
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John Long's book will answer most of your questions and certainly have you well on your way. If you do forum searches on here for "anchors" and "cordalette" you will find pages and pages and pages of reading material. Good luck! |
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Freedom of the Hills. Hands down. |
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I really enjoyed "Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide" by Craig Luebben more than Long's books. To each his/her own. |
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I enjoyed John Long's climbing anchors, put out by Falcon. |
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Thanks for your input everyone I'll look into those books alleyehave wrote:Stop this stupid thread, immediately. Equalize, redundantisize, minimize, and shut the fuck up. It's that simple.Considering I barely know what your talking about when you say, equalize, redundantisize, and minimize.. I think this is a very valid thread in the BEGINNER FORUM!!!!!!! Thanks for your input though..... |
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Jeron Miller wrote:Considering I barely know what your talking about when you say, equalize, redundantisize, and minimize.. I think this is a very valid thread in the BEGINNER FORUM!!!!!!! Thanks for your input though.....In my opinion you are right, it is a very valid question to ask. I would start with good understanding of the basic anchor setup with standard cordelette. After you understand all safety elements, you will have better idea of what advantages and disadvantages other gear/methods offer. There is no simple answer, which method is the best, it really depends on conditions. That is why there a set of general rules you follow to judge if anchor is good or not. Some of them are :"equalize, redundantisize, and minimize". Get the books,and start reading. Also you can go to you tube, search for "climbing anchors", and you will find some videos explaining the anchor concepts. The "mountain tools" ones are quite good. Good luck! |
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alleyehave wrote:Stop this stupid thread, immediately. Equalize, redundantisize, minimize, and shut the fuck up. It's that simple.Moderation: alleyehave, consider this your official warning. This is a forum section for beginners, and all questions should be welcomed and answered respectfully. We were all new at this sport at one time or another, and we all had these now-obvious questions answered by someone willing to share their knowledge. |
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Redundantisize? |
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Jeron Miller wrote:I'm also buying john longs anchor building book.... so if that will answer everything i asked I'll just wait for it to get here.Yes, it should answer most of your questions. Personally, I tried out the equallette concept Long focuses a lot of time on and it just didn't catch on for me. In fact, I've never seen aybody build one out in the field. Still, it would be a sound way of anchoring. As Long focuses on, I would suggest learning what makes a sound placement (cams, nuts, etc.) and build your anchor technique around that. |
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Zeke wrote: I tried out the equallette concept Long focuses a lot of time on and it just didn't catch on for me. In fact, I've never seen aybody build one out in the field.I carry a pre-tied equalette and I can set it up pretty fast. We had a thread going about this a while back, John Long himself actually chimed in and said he uses the rope to anchor mostly. mountainproject.com/v/self-… |
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Zeke wrote: Yes, it should answer most of your questions. Personally, I tried out the equallette concept Long focuses a lot of time on and it just didn't catch on for me. In fact, I've never seen aybody build one out in the field. Still, it would be a sound way of anchoring. As Long focuses on, I would suggest learning what makes a sound placement (cams, nuts, etc.) and build your anchor technique around that.Yeah, what a lot of people take away from anchor instruction are clever ways to tie all the pieces together. But the absolute most important thing to have down pat is getting bomber placements in your anchor. Last weekend I seconded a pitch that was led by a less experienced partner. When I got to the belay I saw that he had just clipped to a slung chockstone because he couldn't find anything else to use. When I looked at the rock, I was able to lift it up with one hand. There was a good crack 8 feet above him but his tunnel vision didn't let him see it. If I had botched the pitch, there would have been a very good chance that the two of us would have taken a ride to the bottom. Point is, yes it is important to know how to safely and quickly tie the pieces together, whether it's with the rope, a cordollette, slings, or whatever. But what will get you hurt will be shitty placements. |
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Zeke wrote: Yes, it should answer most of your questions. Personally, I tried out the equallette concept Long focuses a lot of time on and it just didn't catch on for me. In fact, I've never seen aybody build one out in the field. Still, it would be a sound way of anchoring.I started out using an equallette when I was just beginning to lead, then started using a cordallette almost all the time, then I went in a sliding X and webollette phase. In retrospect I think every one of these phases, while helpful in the learning process, wasn't ideal. Now I change it up depending on the climb, I tend to use an equallette more at Taqhuitz because it tends to be easier to equalize due to the arrangment of pro, a cordallette on big walls in Yosemite because I'm usually on a route with 3 bomber horizontal bolts, sliding x when I'm sport climbing and I'm only clipping a TR into the chains ect.... To the OP, like everything else in climbing you need to develop a solid understanding of all the different options available and eventually you'll find out what works for you. Anchoring is definitely something worth taking the time to understand correctly to the point were you're comfortable improvising solutions based on sound principles. Long's book is a great place to start. |
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I have Lubbens book and it's real good. All kinds of good pictures of good/bad placements. The best advice out of that book is... take the book, your rack, harness, and some rope to a crag, or cliff where you won't bother anyone. At this location build as many anchors as you can and bounce test the gear close to the ground. Hang on the gear w. your harness, you can even do everything in your power to blow pieces out! A little practice never hurt anyone. |
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muttonface wrote: Best advice yet. I'm surprised no one else mentioned it earlier.Yeah, ground school is definitely the way to go to try it all out - especially anchor rigging. |
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Wanker T. Douche wrote:I have Lubbens book and it's real good. All kinds of good pictures of good/bad placements. The best advice out of that book is... take the book, your rack, harness, and some rope to a crag, or cliff where you won't bother anyone. At this location build as many anchors as you can and bounce test the gear close to the ground. Hang on the gear w. your harness, you can even do everything in your power to blow pieces out! A little practice never hurt anyone. Cordelette is cord tied off. Equilette is time consuming and confusing, Webbolette is webbing tied off, and a sliding x will supposedly kill you, so tie limiting knots.I am brand new at this game as well and have found Luebben's books to be very helpful. Great thread, btw. |
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Get Long and Luebben's books. Another excellent choice, better than the committee-produced Freedom of the Hills in my opinion, is The Mountaineering Handbook by Craig Connally. |