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Cordillera Blanca

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Cordillera Blanca  


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Elevation: 22,000'
Page Views: 106,637
Administrators: TYeary, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) on Apr 16, 2008
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Description 

Poster's note: I originally posted this area, and then Tony added the great description below, in the "comments" section. His piece is so much better I asked him if I could move it up here. Nice job, Tony.


The Cordillera Blanca
by Tony Yeary

Some of the best “super alpine” climbing in the world can be found in the Cordillera Blanca, or commonly referred to as, the Peruvian Andes.
The Blanca is the highest tropical mountain range on earth. The Blanca is a compact range, 180 kilometers long and 20 kilometers wide. It contains no less than 25 peaks reaching 6000 meters and another 35 rising above 5700 meters. Topping the range is Huascaran, 6768 meters or 22,205’, the fourth highest peak in the Western Hemisphere. The mountains run roughly northwest to southeast and are bordered on the east by the Amazon Basin to the west by the Cordillera Negra, a high (14,000’) dry range. In between the Negra and the Blanca is the Rio Santa Valley in which lies the town of Huaraz. Huaraz could be called the Chamonix of the Andes. At 10,000’ Huaraz is your first step in acclimating and the base for your mountain adventures.
In general the climbing season runs from May through July. However with global warming effecting the Blanca, the season has now shifted through August with fine weather as well. This is the dry season and the weather can be very dependable. Seven to twelve days of clear skies followed be a few days of unsettled weather and repeating until August, when the weather becomes more unstable with longer period of clouds, rain and /or snow. During the climbing season temps can fluctuate greatly. Night time lows above 5000 meters can be minus 5 to minus 25 degrees Celsius. The valleys can be as warm as 25 degrees Celsius and very nice.
Brad Johnson, author of, “Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca, Peru, has likened the Blanca to a cross between the Alps and the Himalaya. It has the easy approaches and none of the crowds of the Alps. Yet the peaks are high, wild, and seemingly remote.
The days of large expeditions and fix ropes are gone. Most of these peaks are aptly suited to small teams climbing in alpine style. Most base camps are no more than two days travel time from Huaraz. Huaraz is a day’s travel from Lima, and now there are flights to Anta, twenty minutes north of Huaraz for around $90 US one way. Weight restrictions on this flight make this option problematic. Most take the bus, like Cruz del Sur for about $15 US one way. This is an eight hour bus ride that follows the dry desert like coast for four hours before turning east and climbing up to the pass of Concordia. Here you are at about 12,000’ and hour or so north is Huaraz at 10,000’.
In ’05 I paid ten dollars a day for an Arriero and five dollars a day for burros. Horses were 10 a day

In Huaraz, one will find many outfitters( gear and gas canisters), a grocery stores, open air markets, and hardware stores (white gas). Route conditions and peak info can be found at the Casa de Guias. Lodging and Logistic support will be found in Huaraz as well. There are many to choose from and I can recommend the following:

Casa de Zarela for lodging and logistic support.

Olaza Guest House L&L support and mountain biking as well.

Edwards Inn

Hotel Churup

Additional info can be found in Brad Johnson’s book. “Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca, Peru” perhaps the best single inclusive source for the Blanca in English.

Popular peaks are;

Alpamayo 5947 AD+ via the Ferrari Route, D via the French Direct
Quitararju 6036 AD via the West Ridge, D- via the North Face
Artesonraju 6025 D via the South Face
Huascaran Sur 6768 PD+/AD- via the Garganta
Pisco Oeste 5752 PD via the Southwest slopes(normal route)
Chopicalqui 6354 PD+/AD- via the Southeast Ridge
Copa 6188 PD via the West Slopes.
Ishinca 5530 PD- via the Northwest Slopes or the Southwest Ridge
Urus Este 5420 PD- via the Southeast slopes to the East Ridge
Tocllaraju 6032 D via the Northwest Ridge
Vallunaraju 5686 AD- via the North Ridge


Peru is a “third world country” with all the associated trials and tribulations. Travel smart, guard your bags, learn some Spanish, and invest a bit of yourself into the folks you come in contact with. Also remember we are guests and as climbers we have a duty to help preserve the resource we are using. This means carry your trash out. Be careful about disposing of human waste. Don’t discard your gas canisters ect.. Carry it in-carry it out!

NOTE! As of this year, 2012, the "new" regulations are being enforced irregularly throughout Parque National Huascaran, which includes the Cordillera Blanca.
Be advised it is best to be affiliated with an UIAA recognized alpine club or the equivalent. Showing your membership card goes along way in steering clear of the guide requirements for climbers wishing to operate on their own. Be sure and purchase your park pass be prepared to show it when entering any of the major Quebrada's.

Getting There 

Easiest (and cheapest) way is by bus from Lima to Huaraz, then get a guide service to drop you at a trailhead. At many trailheads you can find outfitters with donkeys to carry your gear into the hills.

Climbing Season



Weather station 32.7 miles from here

28 Total Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',2],['V6-7',3],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cordillera Blanca:
Ishinca, 5530m Northwest Slopes   Easy Snow     Snow, Alpine, 3800'   Ishinca Valley
Yanapaccha West Face   Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 1650'   Quebrada Llanganuco
Pisco Normal Route   Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 3300'   Quebrada Llanganuco
Southeast Slopes to East Ridge, Urus Este 5420mts.   Easy Snow     Snow, Alpine, 3100'   Ishinca Valley
The Original Route   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000'   Quebrada Paron : La Esfinge
Karma de los Cóndores   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000'   Ishinca Valley
Browse More Classics in Cordillera Blanca

Featured Route For Cordillera Blanca
Josh on the f.a. of The Heist V6

The Heist V6 7A  South America : Peru : ... : Quebrada Llaca [Bouldering]
The Heist Boulder's namesake, start this semi-highball on the left side (by the tree) on the corner and climb the technical slab until you hit a thank god rail right near the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Cordillera Blanca Slideshow Add Photo
Laguna Paron
Laguna Paron
Sunset from Col Camp, Alpamayo
Sunset from Col Camp, Alpamayo
Alpamayo and  col camp.
Alpamayo and col camp.
Alpamayo at sunset from col camp.
Alpamayo at sunset from col camp.
Jim Hefner, leading the last pitch on the Ferrari ...
Jim Hefner, leading the last pitch on the Ferrari ...
Pucahrica ridge at sunset.
Pucahrica ridge at sunset.
Sunset on Tocllaraju from Ishinca base camp area.
Sunset on Tocllaraju from Ishinca base camp area.
Camp II  on Chopi.
Camp II on Chopi.
Sunset over the Huandoys from Artesonraju
Sunset over the Huandoys from Artesonraju
Summit ridge of Chopi.
Summit ridge of Chopi.
Climbers below the Bergschrund, Ferrari route, Alp...
Climbers below the Bergschrund, Ferrari route, Alp...
View from summit of Chopi.
View from summit of Chopi.
Ranrapalca in B&W.
Ranrapalca in B&W.
What needs to be said?
What needs to be said?
Looking back at the summit of Ishinca.
Looking back at the summit of Ishinca.
Moss and stream detail, Ishinca Valley
Moss and stream detail, Ishinca Valley
Looking back on the NW ridge of Chopicalqui. Alan ...
Looking back on the NW ridge of Chopicalqui. Alan ...
Stream detail, Ishinca Valley.
Stream detail, Ishinca Valley.
Fields below the Blanca.
Fields below the Blanca.
Alpamayo.
Alpamayo.
Artesonraju at sunset from Moraine Camp, Alpamayo
Artesonraju at sunset from Moraine Camp, Alpamayo
Late night snack. At the Sex Burger stand, 3am in ...
Late night snack. At the Sex Burger stand, 3am in ...
Climbers on the glacier below Nev. Ishinca
Climbers on the glacier below Nev. Ishinca
Jim Hefner climbing the 'schrund on the Ferrari Ro...
Jim Hefner climbing the 'schrund on the Ferrari Ro...

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Comments on Cordillera Blanca Add Comment
Show which comments
By doak
From: boulder, co
Nov 20, 2012
While Tony suggests the Cordillera climbing season is May-July, I was down there for the month of August 2002 and had fine conditions. We had only 2 days of storms on our routes, which made navigating difficult but were otherwise climbable through.

Additionally, the avalanche hazard is somewhat more stabilized by August. Huascaran saw 2 seperate multi-victim avalanches earlier that 2002 season, however in August the snow on Huascaran was well consolidated with possibly some risk of wet sluffs on the hot afternoons.

On steeper routes the snow/ice was commonly rotten and hollow, making anchors and protection a real challenge. I don't know if this aspect would have been better earlier in the season.

The place is amazing! It's also a serious range with plenty of hazards, even on the standard routes. Chopicolqui NW ridge could have easily gone badly for us, and we were relieved to make it off that mountain alive. Trip report with pictures at climbingdreams.net/life/2002/p...
By Hamik Mukelyan
From: Pasadena, CA
Sep 2, 2013
Here's a little guide to food, accommodations, and logistics for Huaraz: Climber's Guide to Huaraz