By zimick Sep 20, 2012
| Ok.... Just wanted to survey folks and see what methods/solutions everybody has come up with to carry a cordelette... somebody has to have the "trick" no muss, no fuss way! |  FLAG |
By Tony B From Around Boulder, CO Sep 20, 2012
| Doubled, redoubled, then tied into an overhand figure 8. If it is too long, I add a twist to the 8. It is about the size of a plastic soda bottle that way and takes ~10 seconds to do and less to undo. |  FLAG |
By Said From Boulder, Co Sep 20, 2012
| Cargo Pockets in your pants. Great for route topos, cliff bars and P&S cameras too. I recently did Steck-Salathe, the offwidth monster with all that crap in my pockets and did not find it a hinderance. |  FLAG |
By Ed Wright Sep 20, 2012
| I have been climbing for 45 years and have never carried a cordelette. |  FLAG |
By Crossing From Breinigsville, PA Sep 20, 2012
| When I carry mine, I coil it around my hand then wrap the remaining loop around the coil a few times and thread it through an individual strand of the coil and clip it. This pic might show it better.
| A dingus with 2 cordelettes Submitted By: Crossing on Sep 20, 2012
| |  FLAG |
By Kenan Sep 20, 2012
| Tony B wrote: Doubled, redoubled, then tied into an overhand figure 8. If it is too long, I add a twist to the 8. It is about the size of a plastic soda bottle that way and takes ~10 seconds to do and less to undo. +1 Compact, easy to tie and untie |  FLAG |
By csproul Sep 20, 2012
| Basically I coil it just like you'd butterfly coil a rope...except much smaller obviously. |  FLAG |
By Jim Titt From Germany Sep 20, 2012
| Victoria Alexanders wrote: I don't bring cordilette anymore. Instead I bring two tripple length slings. Cut up to form two triple-length slings which I leave at home. |  FLAG |
By Derek W From Larkspur, CO Sep 20, 2012
| Tony B wrote: Doubled, redoubled, then tied into an overhand figure 8. If it is too long, I add a twist to the 8. It is about the size of a plastic soda bottle that way and takes ~10 seconds to do and less to undo. +1 |  FLAG |
By Charlie S From Ogden, UT Sep 20, 2012
| Take it from a double to a triple loop, hold both ends, twist several times, bend at the halfway point and it'll twist about its own axis. Rack on a biner. |  FLAG |
By Larry S Sep 20, 2012
| I do what crossing described... start at the ends/knot wrap it loosely around my hand (flat with fingers spread) to make a ball the size of a small nerf football, when there's about 2' left to go, i do a couple wraps perpendicular to the first wraps, then tuck the tail through a few strands from each side of the first wraps and hang it from the tail loop. It's quick easy and secure, you don't have to fight to get a bunch of strands on one biner. When you need it, pop the tail free and drop the rest and it uncoils itself. |  FLAG |
By B.S. Luther From Walnut, CA Sep 20, 2012
| Crossing wrote: When I carry mine, I coil it around my hand then wrap the remaining loop around the coil a few times and thread it through an individual strand of the coil and clip it. Someone showed me something similar recently. Take about 8 inches of cordelette then start folding it up on top of that section.. so you end up with a thick, 8 inch section (that's what she said), then wrap a bit of the remainder around it a few times and pull through one of the end loops and clip. Not sure if that made sense, I think it's the exact same idea as Crossing's just with a larger section. Works pretty well though, and very quick. |  FLAG |
By skeeter From Lakewood CA Sep 20, 2012
| Victoria Alexanders wrote: I don't bring cordilette anymore. Instead I bring two tripple length slings. curious if you use this to double up at anchor or for top and bottom anchor edit: currently i triple, twist, then rack |  FLAG |
By Lakota Sep 20, 2012
| | Like so Submitted By: Lakota on Sep 20, 2012
| Thanx. I like this new way of using tripple lengths.. Just something im trying out. The tripple lengths are manufacturer sewn btw so the strength is not impeded. Note my 'pas' prusell prussic with the dynamic cord I learned from a guide in Utah! |  FLAG |
By zimick Sep 20, 2012
| Thanks for the input.... When i carry i have been doing the "ball and hang" method just was wondering if I was missing something! |  FLAG |
By harpo-the-climber Sep 21, 2012
| Ray Pinpillage wrote: Welcome back Elenor. dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/knotting-dyneema-vid/ Sorry for thread drift. I saw that video and am aware you aren't supposed to construct sling by knotting dyneema or spectra tape. However, I presume that there is no problem with using longer sewn dyneema/spectra slings as cordeletes by attaching them to two or three anchors and creating a master point by tying a figure 8 (or 9)? I have been doing this for a while with no problems. |  FLAG |
By Dom Administrator From New Brunswick Canada Sep 21, 2012
| Ray Pinpillage wrote: Welcome back Elenor. dmmclimbing.com/knowledge/knotting-dyneema-vid/ What's the link between the picture and the video? Edit: The Quote seems to be malfunctioning. The last question is from me (Dom) and not from Ray Pinpillage. |  FLAG |
By Scott McMahon From Boulder, CO Sep 21, 2012
| I've only done what I always thought was the standard way as seen in luebben's book. I wasn't aware people did it any other way. The only difference is my coils are sloppier in the field and clean when I put it away. |  FLAG |
By Tony B From Around Boulder, CO Sep 21, 2012
| Ray Pinpillage wrote: Welcome back Elenor. YEah, Welcome back... and then... nahnah nah na Nahh na na nahhh... hey hey hey goodbye! "And you... You've managed to piss off every single one of them." "That was the plan." "Not a great plan. ... There is NO THRONE, no version of this where you come out on top."
|  FLAG |
By Ray Pinpillage Sep 21, 2012
| Dom wrote: What's the link between the picture and the video? Edit: The Quote seems to be malfunctioning. The last question is from me (Dom) and not from Ray Pinpillage. I don't know, I just put up the DMM link. |  FLAG |
By Ray Pinpillage Sep 21, 2012
| harpo-the-climber wrote: Sorry for thread drift. I saw that video and am aware you aren't supposed to construct sling by knotting dyneema or spectra tape. However, I presume that there is no problem with using longer sewn dyneema/spectra slings as cordeletes by attaching them to two or three anchors and creating a master point by tying a figure 8 (or 9)? I have been doing this for a while with no problems. Dyneema should not be tied in a knot. It is probably OK for top rope anchors but it seems like a bad habit to get into. |  FLAG |
By bearbreeder Sep 21, 2012
| knots are fine as long as there is rope in the system .... the DMM video is very misunderstood |  FLAG |
By Dom Administrator From New Brunswick Canada Sep 21, 2012
| Grosso Modo The DMM video shows that you should never tie your dyneema slings together using a knot. I've never seen anyone do this. Usually, dyneema slings are sewn together and I haven't seen dyneema slings sold without these ''sewn attachements''. Cordelette on the other hand, is frequently tied together with a knot. (e.g. double fisherman's) In the picture, the sling has an overhand used to equalized both strands of the sling. It's not used to tie the sling together. You can clearly see the ''sewn part in the picture''. Don't know if this makes sense, but in a nutshell the video is apples and the picture is oranges. |  FLAG |
By Sam Stephens Sep 21, 2012
| Dom wrote: Grosso Modo The DMM video shows that you should never tie your dyneema slings together using a knot. I've never seen anyone do this. Usually, dyneema slings are sewn together and I haven't seen dyneema slings sold without these ''sewn attachements''. Cordelette on the other hand, is frequently tied together with a knot. (e.g. double fisherman's) In the picture, the sling has an overhand used to equalized both strands of the sling. It's not used to tie the sling together. You can clearly see the ''sewn part in the picture''. Don't know if this makes sense, but in a nutshell the video is apples and the picture is oranges. Not quite there killer. The knot is in a load absorbing section of the anchor. A knot in the dyneema cuts it by whatever % applicable. If for some god awful reason that master point were loaded beyond the decreased strength of the material with the knot in it, there would be problems. That's pretty basic stuff. Knot in dyneema, bad. Knot in dyneema at anchor, bad. Fall on anchor with knot in dyneema where the knot is used to form a master point and prevent extension, bad. |  FLAG |
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