|Khao Chin Lae 2
|Access through Buddhist Temple MORE INFO >>>|
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>
Long pitches, some sharp rock, interesting climbing, somewhat exposed at the top, and an actual summit (not many of these in Thailand) with a great view.
From November to January, the surrounding fields are covered with giant sunflowers... beautiful!
The longest climb in Thailand.
P1. 5.9 - 130 feet. Start up a face with a small blocky roof above. Pass between two lower anchors at the roof, and continue up, then out left onto the face. Belay at a good ledge.
P2. 5.9 - 100 ft. Continue up and left on the face, then right to a belay at a large tree.
P3. 5.9 - 100 ft. Head straight up, into a bit of a hand crack, to a big ledge below a steep orange wall. You will see a rappel anchor at about 90 ft... continue past the anchor, past the bush onto the large ledge with a bolted belay.
P4. 5.10b - 130 ft. Pull through the steep crux, then onto a vertical face that seems to go forever. Trust these weird black deposits in the rock. Belay at a ledge on the right.
P5. 5.8 - 60 ft. Climb up the arete, then right to a belay ledge.
P6. 4th class - 70 ft. We soloed up to the summit. Found some bolts when we got there but you'd have to rap through a small ledge of jungle to get back to the 5th belay. Better to down climb.
Descent. You could do 5 raps with an 80 meter rope, but two ropes is a lot better. Make four rappels to the ground. Rap from B5 to the lower anchor at B3. Rap from B3 to B1 and B1 to the ground.
This route starts right where the trail meets the wall. It is #14 in the Temple Sector on the free topo from www.bamboo-escalade.com
Expansion bolts, well protected climb. Two bolt anchors.