Copradelite 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c/d [details] |
| FA: | Claude ? |
| Submitted By: | rob bauer on Sep 4, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Copradelite in center. There is a rope on Middle ...
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Description This isn't my route, but citing the comments section for Dinosaur Foot, we can say that it has been there at least since 5/09. Leo Paik confirmed that "Claude put up a 5.9+" in this location and named it,"...a play on copralite, which is fossilized dino dung." So, to round out the Route list, I'll go out on the ledge.
The crux is getting to the second bolt and only a little easier, if reachy, making the 3rd. (I'm 5'8") Pretty consistent "5.9+" climbing after that to the top since the angle drops off a bit. Rating? Tad easier than Critical Morass on Big Ass Slab, IMHO. It is way harder than Middle Toe.
Location This route starts in the back of the alcove right of Middle Toe, left of Heel Toe.
Protection 9(?)bolts to 2 ring bolt anchors.
By Paul Donald Andrews
From: Nederland, Co.
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.10d
| TR'd this route yesterday. A bit of snow in the alcove at the base of the route, so I missed the opening move, which looks hard. Stemmed over to the stance at the first bolt, and up from there. My partner agreed with me that the moves down low felt like 11a. I'm 5' 9", he's 5' 8". For comparison, I led Critical Morass last week and thought that was about 10b. Anyhoo, this is a great route, continuous, steep line with nice edges and some jugs up higher. Looks like an exciting lead with the bolts just about where you would want them. |
By John Dubya
May 25, 2012
| Climbed this route and def didn't feel 5.9ish (as I think the original rating was posted?). Anyway, if you go straight up the bolt line at the start without stemming on the rock behind you, it is thin and balancy. After that, it felt pretty sustained until the top where it lets up for the last couple of bolts. Felt more like .11a to me (especially through the first 2 bolts), but I had zero beta, which tends to help on these super techy slab routes. |
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