Type: | Aid, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Aaron Walters and Bob Bradley, 1994 |
Page Views: | 2,436 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | paco on Mar 21, 2003 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
A pretty dang cool aid line. Copperhead takes the seams and cracks left of Viper and just right of Autumn Mist.
Start in an alcove/chimney just down and right of Autumn Mist and Central Chimney. It's a bit awkward right off the bat, and I used a #5 Camalot to reach the first of the mank fixed heads. From there, traverse right passing an old bolt and two more heads to reach the base of the main crack. Continue 40ft or so on C1 cams and nuts until reaching the obvious crux. Now, bring out the trickery and aid lightly through the seam to the first of two bolts. Pass these and make a scary-larry hook move on rotten rock to one more bolt and then the anchors. Just so you know, this hook move is quite rotten and I've seen people resort to a cheater stick and even a pendulum left to Autumn Mist.
From here, rap 95ft or continue upwards joining Autumn Mist for its 2nd pitch.
Start in an alcove/chimney just down and right of Autumn Mist and Central Chimney. It's a bit awkward right off the bat, and I used a #5 Camalot to reach the first of the mank fixed heads. From there, traverse right passing an old bolt and two more heads to reach the base of the main crack. Continue 40ft or so on C1 cams and nuts until reaching the obvious crux. Now, bring out the trickery and aid lightly through the seam to the first of two bolts. Pass these and make a scary-larry hook move on rotten rock to one more bolt and then the anchors. Just so you know, this hook move is quite rotten and I've seen people resort to a cheater stick and even a pendulum left to Autumn Mist.
From here, rap 95ft or continue upwards joining Autumn Mist for its 2nd pitch.
Protection
Bring doubles of cams to a #3 Camalot and one to two sets of nuts. For the crux, bring micro nuts, beaks, tricams, a big cam hook and a right angle pika toucan (or another beak?).
A clean ascent of Copperhead relies on two fixed heads on the traverse right at the start. The old A4 crux goes C3 w/o any fixed pro.
There are three bolts on the route and a three bolt anchor up top. All bolts especially the anchors needed replacement and have been replaced by Eli Helmuth.
A clean ascent of Copperhead relies on two fixed heads on the traverse right at the start. The old A4 crux goes C3 w/o any fixed pro.
There are three bolts on the route and a three bolt anchor up top. All bolts especially the anchors needed replacement and have been replaced by Eli Helmuth.
Photos
- No Photos -
1 Comment