|831 page views|
|Type: ||Aid, 1 pitch, 100 feet|
|FA: ||Aaron Walters and Bob Bradley, 1994|
|Submitted By: ||paco on Mar 22, 2003|
A pretty dang cool aid line. Copperhead takes the seams and cracks left of Viper and just right of Autumn Mist.
Start in an alcove/chimney just down and right of Autumn Mist and Central Chimney. It's a bit awkward right off the bat, and I used a #5 Camalot to reach the first of the mank fixed heads. From there, traverse right passing an old bolt and two more heads to reach the base of the main crack. Continue 40ft or so on C1 cams and nuts until reaching the obvious crux. Now, bring out the trickery and aid lightly through the seam to the first of two bolts. Pass these and make a scary-larry hook move on rotten rock to one more bolt and then the anchors. Just so you know, this hook move is quite rotten and I've seen people resort to a cheater stick and even a pendulum left to Autumn Mist.
From here, rap 95ft or continue upwards joining Autumn Mist for its 2nd pitch.
Bring doubles of cams to a #3 Camalot and one to two sets of nuts. For the crux, bring micro nuts, beaks, tricams, a big cam hook and a right angle pika toucan (or another beak?).
A clean ascent of Copperhead relies on two fixed heads on the traverse right at the start. The old A4 crux goes C3 w/o any fixed pro.
There are three bolts on the route and a three bolt anchor up top. All bolts especially the anchors needed replacement and have been replaced by Eli Helmuth.
|By Eli Helmuth|
From: Estes Park, CO
Aug 20, 2003
I replaced the the three 1/4" bolts of the anchor on this route with two 3/8" stainless in early August.