La Boca, V3
A high concentration of Morrison sandstone bouldering on black blocks forming the eastern ridge of a slickrock basin. Problems can be found on the opposite side of the ridge, on the approach, and in other drainages, but the concentration is not as high elsewhere. 70 or so problems have been established so far. Small, sharp edges predominate, although there are still numerous problems featuring macro features and pockets, as well. The rock quality is good, although not nearly as good as nearby Joe's Valley, Triassic, or Big Bend.
The climbing is just off 70, south of Crescent Junction at the parking lot of the Copper Ridge Dinosaur Trackway. Driving south towards Moab, if you get to the Canyonlands airport, you've gone too far. There are multiple approaches for the area. Pay little heed to cairns, as non-climbing user groups have placed cairn-marked trails all over.
(1) The easiest approach is the most difficult to describe. From the parking area, head south from the toilet structure, walking between the juniper bush and the small boulder, as though you were heading towards Klondike Bluffs. In front of you on a small ridge you will see a boulder with a somewhat lightening bolt-shaped roof crack. Follow the faint trail towards this boulder. When you reach the drainage immediately below this boulder, you will leave the faint trail entirely, heading left up this drainage all the way to the eventual slickrock basin where the highest concentration of boulders may be found. Rather than attempting to walk directly up this drainage, it is easier to walk up the slickrock next to it at the start for at leat 500 feet in order to avoid the irritating boulders that choke its terminus. Afterwards, you should be able to stay in the wash on sand and rock for the most part, avoiding the occasional juniper. The time to hike the wash is 15-20 minutes.
(2) Hike up the trail going to the dinosaur tracks. Continue up the prehistoric streambed/mining road until you reach a sign warning hikers of the dangers of exploring old mining claims. Drop off the road to the right immediately and continue waliking up the old streambed. Stay left (river right) at any obvious forks. In the distance, you may occasionally glimpse a decomposing cone of scree capped by some flat, jumbled rock. This overlooks the slickrock basin that is your destination. Eventually, of your left you will see some tall boulders pocked with huecos. Immediately after passing these boulders, you will see a faint trail through the dark red sand on your right. This may be marked by cairns. Walk over the red sand towards the low rise. From the rise, you will see the black boulders of Copper Ridge on the far ridge across the slickrock basin. This approach also takes 15-20 minutes.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 6.0 miles from here
Mar 8, 2013
If someone wants to re-post all seventy published problems from Wikiboulder , be my guest. I don't know the area well enough to do it without screwing it up.
By Paul Irby
From: moab, ut
Mar 15, 2013
Just had to post it on the internet, huh?
I know it should go without saying, but please tread lightly out here. Climbers have already trampled all over the fragile and formerly pristine desert soil.