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Five and Dime Cliff
Routes Sorted
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Bijou S 
Chump Change T 
Copper Penny T 
Five and Dime T 
Inner Reaches T 
Keystone Corner T 
Mockery S 
Nickel Bag S 
Ride the Lightning T,S 
Whack and Dangle T 

Copper Penny 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Don Reid and Jay Fiske, 1975.
Page Views: 1,784
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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relief of getting a piece after no pro chimneyin'

Description 

Climb face and a offwidth crack, left of "Five and Dime".


Protection 

Pro to 6".



Photos of Copper Penny Slideshow Add Photo
Copper Penny
Copper Penny
Copper Penny shares a start with Five & Dime and then climbs the right facing flake/corner with a wide crack in back.
BETA PHOTO: Copper Penny shares a start with Five & Dime and t...
Copper Penny/Five and Dime beta telephoto.
BETA PHOTO: Copper Penny/Five and Dime beta telephoto.
Comments on Copper Penny Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 14, 2007

Burly crux.

Easy to build TR anchors if you don't have the gear (or the nuts) to lead it.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Aug 23, 2007

Most will want a couple LARGE pieces (#5 Camalot and larger) or be prepared to run it out towards the top. With only one #5, I ended up backing off on lead and opted for the top-rope instead.

By Aron Quiter
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 13, 2008

This is one of the first routes I did in Yosemite, almost 10 years ago. I had major problems with the crux, and think I was crying by the time I finally got to the top of the climb!

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

If you use the cheater flake inside, this is pretty light for the grade.