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Little Eiger area - ice
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Coors Light Exit Crack 
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Coors Lite 

WI2-3

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus: WI3- [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Winter
Page Views: 4,747
Submitted By: Chris Zeller on Jan 13, 2001
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JP (age 4) on 1st pitch of Coors Lite. 12-23-07.

Description 

This climb can be done in three pitches or as three separate climbs. Each one can be toproped individually, or a lead climber can escape from the top of each pitch.

The first pitch is the longest and ascends three separate vertical steps of a broad flow with many variations. Each step is 10-20 feet high for a total of over 100 foot diagonal distance. The last of these steps ascends a narrow 70-80 degree runnel to the anchor. The lower pitch can easily accommodate two parties and a thin hanging curtain on the right hand side contains some hard mixed climbing when conditions are right.

A short hike up the creek from the top of the first pitch brings you to the second pitch, a broad curtain that can accommodate at least three teams with the climbs becoming progressively difficult from right to left. The main line ascends a 70-80 degree pitch of fat ice 30-40 feet high. The center section sometimes has thick free-hanging pillars. Some harder mixed climbing on gently overhanging rock with good pick placements and dangling ice forms on the extreme left of the climb. Bolts (often partially covered by ice) form an anchor at the top of the right-most pitch. Use trees set 10-20 yards back from the lip, or screws to protect the rest of the curtain.

The final pitch traverses two-three low angle steps above. These pitches are great for beginner leads or make for a perfect finish to extend the length of the climb.

Descent: You can escape or access each pitch by following obvious trails to the right of the climb. These trails make an easy ascent for a toprope setup.


Protection 

Screws, some rock gear can be useful on optional mixed lines on the edges of the route.


Toprope Protection 

The first and second pitches have good solid bolt anchors at the top and bottom with trees for backup. Bring 5ft slings or double length runners and locking biners. The first pitch requires two ropes or belay from the top.



Photos of Coors Lite Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff Fox climbs the upper flow on 1/25/2008.
Jeff Fox climbs the upper flow on 1/25/2008.
BETA PHOTO
Last pitch of Coors Lite 11-26-09.
BETA PHOTO: Last pitch of Coors Lite 11-26-09.
Michelle Huber on the upper pitch on her first day on ice.
Michelle Huber on the upper pitch on her first day...
Stone and Chris on the 2nd pitch of Coors (2/1/07).
Stone and Chris on the 2nd pitch of Coors (2/1/07)...
Sloppy and wet. Melting and dripping.
Sloppy and wet. Melting and dripping.
Climbing Coors Lite in Clear Creek.
Climbing Coors Lite in Clear Creek.
Unknown climber on the first pitch of Coors Lite, taken from the trail out on 01/09/11.
Unknown climber on the first pitch of Coors Lite, ...
Coors Lite ice (the wide 2nd pitch).
Coors Lite ice (the wide 2nd pitch).
Stone on the 2nd pitch of Coors.
Stone on the 2nd pitch of Coors.
Taken Sat., Dec 11, 2004.  It was 60 degrees out.
BETA PHOTO: Taken Sat., Dec 11, 2004. It was 60 degrees out.
Conditions Feb, 2007.
Conditions Feb, 2007.
Taken Sat, Dec 11, 2004.  60 degrees outside.
BETA PHOTO: Taken Sat, Dec 11, 2004. 60 degrees outside.
Coors Lite conditions on 11-26-09.
BETA PHOTO: Coors Lite conditions on 11-26-09.
From the road, on 12/31/03.
BETA PHOTO: From the road, on 12/31/03.
Second pitch of Coors Light, 1/6/11. <br />Ice was hard and brittle on the far right, getting progressivly slushy to the left.  Chains are a bit rusty.
BETA PHOTO: Second pitch of Coors Light, 1/6/11.
Ice was hard ...
Coors Lite this morning, Jim C up top setting TR.
Coors Lite this morning, Jim C up top setting TR.
Aj Morrison beginning the solo on the right side of the second pitch.
Aj Morrison beginning the solo on the right side o...
Comments on Coors Lite Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 9, 2012
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 3, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

Pretty nice right now! Hopefully the upcoming storms will keep it fresh.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 26, 2014
rating: WI3-

CONDITION REPORT 

Ice is sublimating on the "2nd" pitch. Climbable, but leading this section could be spicy! That said, I led the left side and that seemed to take the "best" screws.

By TBD
Feb 24, 2003

Needed a quick outing so we decided to give this a go. It was pretty fun. The first pitch has decent climable ice all the way to the bolt anchor. The second pitch has 2 climbable lines. One is just left of center, a pillar that tappers toward the top, and the other is a thin line on the right side. Plenty of fun mixed in between.

By TBD
Mar 4, 2003

Continuing to fill in the whole lengths. Great for solo laps.

By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 8, 2004

Soloed this route today, the lower 'pitch' is pretty beat out, but you can choose lines that still seemed pretty fresh. The second pitch is real wet on the right and all chickenheads on the left. A great climb if you have a few hours to kill and want to take some laps.

By Bryan Gartland
From: Helena, MT
Jan 2, 2005

There are new (?) bolts with chains on the top of pitch 1, easily allowing a toprope belay from the bottom with a 60m rope.

As of 1/2/05 both pitches are in pretty good shape. The recent warm weather has done much to heal the ice.

By A concerned citizen
Jan 3, 2005

Gear Alert

One of the bolts was replaced this past spring, it was in pretty tough shape (spinning hanger w/ a stripped nut). The tree that was used as a back-up for the anchor blew down at some point so we got that out of the way. The chains were added to the anchor to help with getting down after doing the 1st pitch. I just hope the gumbies are not top roping directly through the chains.

By Tom Walker
Mar 9, 2012

Wanted to do one more climb while we could this year. Gene Ellis noticed Saturday that the ice looked good, so we decided to climb it today with our friend Warren. The ice was really nice and plastic, except for the top where the chains are where it was brittle. Water was flowing down the right side. I think if we get some cold nights, the climb may stay in for another couple of weeks. On the upper section, only enough room for one top rope, the ice wasn't filled it like it has been in the past.