|Little Eiger area - ice
This is a nice short mixed variation on the far left side of the "second pitch" of Coors Light. Usually there is a short ice pillar on the left side of this second pitch ice curtain. Climb this short pillar (WI3-), climb over a small overhanging ledge (M4+), and then climb left up to a chimney to exit (M2).
A screw, some limited rock gear.
|By Chris Plesko|
From: Westminster, CO
Feb 5, 2011
rating: WI3 M4 PG13
Fun short pitch. Some stems, some torques, some thin ice. A little harder than it looks from below, all the holds are downsloping and the rock is a bit chossy. There can be ice or turf on the topout. Led it in snowy weather so I had to dig for everything.
Good pieces I had were 0.5 C4, #1 C4, yellow Mastercam. No good screws. Could maybe place a 10 or 13 if you had more ice. Protect your second with a screw on the plateau if you use the bolt anchors or just walk back a ways to a tree more in line with the pitch.
|By The Blueprint Part Dank|
From: FEMA Region VIII
Feb 10, 2014
Hurry! Hurry! This super fun variation to Coors Lite is in fat right now. In my opinion, it was a bit more difficult and hence more fun than the actual second pitch of Coors Lite. I soloed the ice pitches on Saturday and saw this variation. I climbed up to the top of the little pillar but decided I didn't want to commit to the stemming without a partner and gear. So I downclimbed and did the actual second pitch of Coors Lite.
But this variation was calling me, so I found a partner and racked up with a couple pieces of rock gear, and boy was I glad I did. This felt like a little 20 foot slice of real alpine ice climbing.
I was able to place a 16 cm screw at the base of the little pillar, a #3 Master Cam in the rock at the top of the pillar, then a 13 cm screw in the ice runnel after stepping over into the chimney.