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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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Cooney-Norton 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 320'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 411
Submitted By: rocknice2 on Sep 29, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    I only did P1 but the climb continues for 2 more pitches.
    The route is not nearly as dirty as it looks. In fact it was remarkably clean.

    P1: Climb up unprotected but easy and get established between two opposing corners. Hard stemming past a pin. Continue until it's possible to move up and right through a series of slashes. Make an unprotected foot traverse right, into a left facing corner. Climb up to first bolt, back left to second bolt. Now you have a choice. Hard move left to a filthy but easy corner or slightly harder moves straight up with lessening difficulty as you get closer to the bolted belay. 150'.

    Location 

    The far left end of Sting Ledge. Belay at a large flat boulder near the base or scramble up the ledge.

    Protection 

    TCU to #2 C4.
    Doubles in .3 - .75
    Double ropes needed for rap.


    Comments on Cooney-Norton Add Comment
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    By Derek Doucet
    Sep 30, 2013
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    A fantastic and under appreciated pitch. With Cosmopolitan Wall next door, one can take in two of Poko's best 5.10 pitches from the same starting ledge. Highly recommended. I'm not sure why the OP proposed a PG13 protection rating. Cooney Norton protects very well. I'd say PG bordering on G, though to be fair the bolt protecting the final moves has definitely seen better days.
    By Jim Lawyer
    Administrator
    Sep 30, 2013

    P1 is definitely the money pitch. P2 is meh. P3 is pretty good.
    By rocknice2
    From: Montreal, Quebec
    Oct 3, 2013

    I changed the safety factor from PG13 to G seeing as this route is better protected than it's neighbor CW but I have to admit it didn't feel like a G. It's somewhere in between G- maybe
    By Nick Weinberg
    From: Essex, NY
    Jun 18, 2014

    This route is nothing special in my opinion, compared to some of the other routes at Poke-O. Very dirty and vegetated when I climbed it. Unlike the typical Poke-O route that might look dirty from below and then has incredible clean climbing once you get on it, this one was actually dirty! Also remember the gear being sketchy, but maybe that's because I was digging moss out of the cracks in order to place gear. I plan to go back to this route and dump a few gallons of agent orange down it. Is that allowed by the DEC?
    By Derek Doucet
    Jun 19, 2014
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    lol, Nick. Further confirmation that you and I have very different tastes in routes. This thing is superb in my opinion. To each their own!
    By Jim Lawyer
    Administrator
    Jun 19, 2014

    Yes, it's a bit dirty, and it's a little runout at the start. Even so, this an *incredible* pitch. Sustained, great moves, long, gear that appears just when you need it, and with a tricky heartbreaker crux at the top.
    By Nick Weinberg
    From: Essex, NY
    Aug 26, 2014

    Yeah I don't know. Maybe I was off route, or it was particularly overgrown when I climbed it. I remember several of the gear placements I had to dig moss out with a nut tool. I guess I'm being outnumbered here so will have to go back and climb it again - perhaps I will reconsider!