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Cooney-Norton 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 320'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 141
Submitted By: rocknice2 on Sep 29, 2013
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    I only did P1 but the climb continues for 2 more pitches.
    The route is not nearly as dirty as it looks. In fact it was remarkably clean.

    P1: Climb up unprotected but easy and get established between two opposing corners. Hard stemming past a pin. Continue until it's possible to move up and right through a series of slashes. Make an unprotected foot traverse right, into a left facing corner. Climb up to first bolt, back left to second bolt. Now you have a choice. Hard move left to a filthy but easy corner or slightly harder moves straight up with lessening difficulty as you get closer to the bolted belay. 150'.


    Location 

    The far left end of Sting Ledge. Belay at a large flat boulder near the base or scramble up the ledge.


    Protection 

    TCU to #2 C4.
    Doubles in .3 - .75
    Double ropes needed for rap.



    Comments on Cooney-Norton Add Comment
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    By Derek Doucet
    Sep 30, 2013
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

    A fantastic and under appreciated pitch. With Cosmopolitan Wall next door, one can take in two of Poko's best 5.10 pitches from the same starting ledge. Highly recommended. I'm not sure why the OP proposed a PG13 protection rating. Cooney Norton protects very well. I'd say PG bordering on G, though to be fair the bolt protecting the final moves has definitely seen better days.

    By Jim Lawyer
    Administrator
    Sep 30, 2013

    P1 is definitely the money pitch. P2 is meh. P3 is pretty good.

    By rocknice2
    From: Montreal, Quebec
    Oct 3, 2013

    I changed the safety factor from PG13 to G seeing as this route is better protected than it's neighbor CW but I have to admit it didn't feel like a G. It's somewhere in between G- maybe