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Cool World Wall
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Cool World 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 215'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Darren Knezek
Page Views: 937
Submitted By: Chuck on Apr 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Belaying from the top of the third pitch; it's eas...

Description 

This is a three pitch climb, 5.7, 5.11a, 5.6.

The first pitch starts the closest set of bolts to the creek. It traversed to the right following a beautiful line in the rock.

The 2nd pitch is the crux. It starts out at 5.6 for about 15 feet to a nice ledge. To the right of the next bolt there's a nice pocket just out of reach. Once you find it the rest is straight forward.

Be ready for hanging belay points. The bolts on the last pitch are spaced far apart. you can use four-foot slings to wrap some chicken heads. Be careful not to get your rope stuck when you pull it off the 3rd pitch.

Location 

200 feet past the second bridge, across the creek from the trail.

Protection 

Sport route. 13 quick draws.


Photos of Cool World Slideshow Add Photo
Starting the third pitch.
Starting the third pitch.
Little Sister following on second pitch.
Little Sister following on second pitch.
Cool World from the trail.  Look hard for the clim...
Cool World from the trail. Look hard for the clim...
First pitch of Cool World.
First pitch of Cool World.

Comments on Cool World Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chuck
From: Columbus, GA
Jul 17, 2006

My second time on this route, I tied two ropes together to cut it down to two raps. Unfortunately, there was too much friction to pull the ropes.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Mar 13, 2009

The REAL first pitch is one of the most unique pitches anywhere! The second is a bit crumbly but stay on the left arete/prow and you will find the best rock. There is an option that stays more in the center of the wall, but the difficulty is stepped up some. The last pitch is a slab but still exciting with the neat plate features. A RC must do!
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
May 4, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Finally got the RP despite a hold breaking off mid climb. More holds have likely broken off over the years. Felt 5.11b fer sure. Getting to the pocket was key, as was finding the crimpers and small feet through the crux.

Walking off the top saves time and avoids the hassles of getting your rope stuck on all of the P3 chicken heads.
By BJB
From: Austin, TX
Aug 9, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

It looks like the route hasn't been done in sometime, so I figured I'd update the conditions a little bit.
The first pitch is still spectacular, fun and unique. The third pitch is also a lot of fun, but something must have broken off the 2nd pitch. I have done a lot of 11's on limestone and felt like the 2nd pitch crux was more like an 11+. It could be that holds have broken off, as there were really no feet up to the pocket, and even after snagging the pocket it was pretty hard to work up to the next bolt. Maybe I missed something but I was really surprised by how hard it was so I thought i'd give a heads up. Also, there were a lot of wasps on p2 and they really liked that pocket, so be careful reaching in there.
I'd also recommend the walk off because the rappel was one of the worst i've done in awhile.