|Morning Glory Wall
While this is certainly a one-sequence wonder route, it's a lot of fun. The crux section is just before the anchors and involves technical long reach moves. It however can be cheated by staying left in the shallow dihedral and risking a pendulum fall in ~10- terrain. The moves up to the crux are on a much easier pocketed seam, but they are still enjoyable.
Just right of Nine Gallon Buckets and left of Taco Chips. Starts in a pocketed seam.
Bolts. Rap Anchors.
|By Ryan Palo|
From: Bend, oregon
Mar 10, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
A five bolt extension was recently added. The rock quality improves dramatically from the first anchor. Move through a broken double arete system to the second set of anchors.
Dec 14, 2008
The extension to cool ranch is really quite enjoyable. The rock isn't great (yet) but the moves are really varied and enjoyable. From the first set of anchors fight through a perplexing sequence to gain the shallow stemming box. The first bolt after the first set of anchors may be hard to clip depending on how you approach the moves. Some "hidden" feet may help you pull the moves after the first set of anchors. The rest of the climb is continuously technical featuring some long reaches. The route felt like 11d to me and the overall crux is probably the bouldery crux before the first set of anchors. So if you can do those moves you might as well take it to the top.
Feb 3, 2012
it took me foreva to figure out the bottom crux then I pulled the rope and fired through the extension. I took a mean dump on this route because I'm the boss!