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Poland Hill
Routes Sorted
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Ape Walk T 
Bear Voo, The T 
Bistro, The 
Boulder Hop T 
Boulder Hopper T 
Clean and Jerk T 
Cool Jet T,TR 
Cumulus 
Estrogen Patch Remover T 
Fantasia T 
Green With Envy T 
Kim T 
Little Old Crack aka Boulder Hop T 
Orbital Ridge T,TR 
Overload T 
Petit Crapon T 
Piece of Dirt S 
Remote Control T 
Skull T 
Soul of a Poet 
Southwest Friction S 
Stem Christie T 
Sugar Crack T 
Sweet Finish T 
Tanfasia T 
Toadstool 
Underachiever  T 
Unsorted Routes:

Cool Jet 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: unknown (certainly not me)
Page Views: 538
Submitted By: Chad Bowman on Oct 15, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Description 

From Fantasia, go right about 5 feet, give or take, to the flaring finger crack that is non-existent at the bottom. What I did was climb Southwest Friction and use the TR anchor bolts from Fantasia. As for the rating, Heel and Toe says 11c. I'm not even close to an 11c climber, so I say 11a/b. But it is very hard. Enjoy!


Protection 

Just past the horizontal crack, there is a fixed piton. Now, I did this on top-rope, but if anyone does want to lead it - I would take a regular set of nuts and maybe a couple of tiny hexes, but nothing much larger.



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By Jim Redo
May 7, 2004

I would think 11c would be the grade if you had to hang out and place pro on lead don't you? Do people even use hexes anymore?

By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
May 9, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Piana, 1982.

As for gear, I'd bring some offset friends or hybrid aliens, a set of small nuts and maybe a red alien for the top. Also, some boldness is necessary to get up to where you can protect it after the piton. Orenzak suggests a big piece right off the belay, but if your belayer is squishy, it shouldn't be a problem.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 17, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

11c with a bouldery start. I tried it a few times in floppy loose shoes and it was utterly impossible. I got it on TR wearing someone elses shoes.Frankly, I thought it would have been MUCH harder for the short. an 11a route with a ??? opening boulder problem that could be 5.11a-12? depending on height. The starting pinch below the climb is broken now too, but I didn't do it, so maybe it's been that way for a long time.

I'd not be downgrading this one either way.

By Chad Bowman
Jun 25, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I climbed this route last fall and it was hard - solid 11b or c. I particularly like the face below it if the boulder behind you isn't used. Once to the piton and on the route, it felt like a one-move 11. After the piton, it feels like a difficult 10. The jams suck, but they're there. For the first timer, climb SW Friction or Fantasia and TR using the bolts above Fantasia. I would definitely recommend doing this route at least once.

By molony
Feb 25, 2008

Seriously brian? Squishy belayers as pro? Solid advice

By Clay Stoner
From: Sheridan, Wy
Sep 5, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13

  • Spoiler* - Offsets are the key! A #1 offset Mastercam can be placed about 4-5 feet above the piton, with the next piece another ~6 feet up(I think a #4 offset). I brought along some c3s but never found any confident placements for them. This is a bold line worth doing if equipped with offsets.