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Cool Cave Chimney
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
Routes in q. Chalkboard Wall
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Bronto Platter T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Cool Cave Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Detention T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dunce's Corner T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Final Exam TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Honey Badger Don't Care TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Milil's Magic Arete TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pop Quiz T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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School Chimney TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Standardized Testing T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Summer School TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sunset Arete T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Writer's Block T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,730 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkiemike on Oct 23, 2011 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
The next chimney to the right of Honey Badger. It's the second one you hop over as you walk out to the bolts atop Skink. Not as squeezy as Honey Badger, so it should appeal to more folks.
Location
While the chimney extends to ground level (the route is named for the really neat cave at the base at the base of the cliff here; check it out), you really need to start on the big ledge 20 ft off the ground. Scramble up a bit in the cleft just left of the large black birch tree, then walk right on the large ledge behind the tree. You can't miss the chimney.
Protection
A pair of #3 Camalot size cams will suffice if you want to build a TR anchor (a horizontal takes gear too if you want a third piece). Gear in the chimney is nothing out of the ordinary. You could place a #4 BigBro if you had one but it's not necessary. The friction in there is excellent and the chimney moves are very secure.
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