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Cooks Wall

Select Area...
Warfare area (Upper Cookbook) 
'Tang area 
Breakfast area 
Cookbook area  
Cooks fin  
Lower wall 
Prow, The 
Upper wall 
Rest Day:
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Cooks Wall  


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Location: 36.4001, -80.2602 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,649
Administrators: saxfiend, Edward Medina, Ryan Williams, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: nbrown on Sep 29, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: An old pic of mine that I copied from another webs...

Description 

Since there have been a few people looking for info on this place, I dug out the old info and am posting it here. I don't really have the time to write it all up in a formal fashion (if someone else wants to do this, send me an email and I'll edit this post), so use the numbered info in each area in conjunction with the "picture" entitled Topo, and that should be get you where you're going.

This cliff is a good alternative to pilot mountain for winter time cragging. The rock is generally better and the crowds are essentially non-existent. It is a large broken up cliff line on the south end of hanging rock state park that requires a long hike in for a relatively small amount of climbing. The left side (west) of the mountain is generally referred to as Cooks Fin and is subdivided into areas. The right sided (east) of the mountain is large and broken but sports some worthwhile routes, namely "Emla", a 5.13 put up by Howie F back in the 90's . Of special note: the cliff can be quite windy and as a result may be unbearably cold in the winter, or reasonably pleasant in warmer weather. Pay attention to predicted wind conditions.

Getting There 

Drive to hanging rock state park and hike the cooks wall trail. The trail eventually peters out, and there are a couple of access gullies found here on the left, though they are likely to be overgrown. The first large and obvious gully/cleft will lead you down just west of the "Cookbook" area. There are some nice sheer walls on the left side, with some old unknown routes here. The best way to approach the "Cooks Fin" is to continue down the ridge a short ways and locate the gully on the left. It will bring you out by the "Breakfast Wall".

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.6 miles from here

35 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',6],['5.11',12],['5.12',9],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Cooks Wall:
Grace Under Pressure   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 80'   Cookbook area
sleeping above the kitchen   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   'Tang area
Great taste of tang   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   'Tang area
Edge of Enlightenment   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 100'   The Prow
DC Crack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   'Tang area
Deceivious   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Cookbook area
Spiritual Warfare   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'    Warfare area (Upper Cook...
Theater Of Pain   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Cookbook area
Browse More Classics in Cooks Wall

Featured Route For Cooks Wall
Seth on the ultra classic, Edge of Enlightenment. ...

Edge of Enlightenment 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  NC : Cooks Wall : The Prow
You might find Enlightenment at the top of this climb, as the crux takes you out onto the edge of the prow and into some awesome exposure.This route is really amazing. The quality, the angle and the positioning make this line a must do.From the belay platform, climb the right bolt line through the roof. Trend right across the lip of the roof at the second bolt to pull over. Climb the face through cryptic sequences to the base of the prow. Clip the first bolt on the prow 24" and climb the right s...[more]   Browse More Classics in NC

Photos of Cooks Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Topo
Topo
For a much easier approach than sliding down the g...
BETA PHOTO: For a much easier approach than sliding down the g...

Comments on Cooks Wall Add Comment
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By David Barbour
From: Denver
Mar 28, 2014
Seth, thanks a bunch for putting up all of this info. Heading up there this Sunday to check it out, psyched!
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