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Mary's Bust - main buttress
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YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: R.M. Wright, ShiAnn Zimmerman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 711
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 24, 2006
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Convolution climbs the first pitch of OOT, and at the top of P1 traverses left to a broad ledge with a double bolt anchor and chains. Getting off OOT and to the belay has one additional tough sequence immediately left of the P1 chains - and several more clips. P2 ascends the deep water groove on the left and finishes at a double bolt stance that is 40 feet below the top of P2 on OOT. In other words, it will not get you to the top of OOT.

The climbing on P2 is convoluted. It climbs more like a chimney than anything else, and it felt very strenuous despite its diminutive 60 foot length. The hands are bad and the feet worse. I found myself trying to push, squirm, and wiggle to an obvious slot half way through. But just getting started was a convoluted mix of pushes, scum, and cryptic friction. The start is likely the crux. Forget contact strength and forget looking for any crispy edges to bear down on. What you see is what you get, a polished tube. P2 was brushed where it seemed prudent, and certainly anything critical is clean enough, but a brush may be useful if you suss out a different sequence than my own. Gym rats will hate it.


Convolution is on the right side of Mary's Bust where MJ and OOT begin.


Fifteen draws and a 60 meter rope will get both P1 and P2. Double bolts and chains at the top of both pitches.

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