Convicted  5.13a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet Consensus:  5.13a [details] FA:  Jeff Moll, 1995 Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Nov 11, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Gitta Lubke on Convicted Fall 2009. www.mattkuehlp...

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Description 

One of the more powerful lines on the Undertow Wall, Convicted is a highly regarded testpiece on the most popular cliff at the Red. A few thin crimps near the start lend this line a reputation as the hardest 13a at The Motherlode. The line surmounts a consistent, "gentle" overhang of ~30 degrees, on amazing jugs, pockets, pinches and a few sinister slopers.

Begin with easy moves up a large, left-facing, juggy flake, that is occasionally wet. Move out left to a few iron-extruded tongues, and make a hard move to jumbly pockets at the second bolt. One hard crank leads to large holds near the third bolt. Continue up sculpted features to a horizontal break just above the second to last bolt. Slopers lead out left to the last bolt, where the angle steepens briefly, and a few long moves lead to good clipping jugs near the anchor.

Location 

On "The Undertow Wall" which is the stacked gray wall right of the Madness Cave. This is the first route left of "Ale 8", which begins immediately left of a large flat boulder laying against the wall.

Protection 

~7 bolts, 2BA