Conversions 5.12 X
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | Matt Samet, Steve Levin |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Pinklebear on Dec 7, 2001 |
| |
2 hooks & a 'Birdbeak', all duct taped.
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Description This is a new route that climbs the smooth black and green face forming the left wall of the first pitch of The Side Wall (just left of Unbroken Chain). It can easily be toproped from the good double-bolt anchor atop the first pitch of The Side Wall. It was established headpoint style and the first two pieces were pre-rigged on top-rope.
The lower face is the crux, mentally and physically. A crimpy stand-up moves caps the sequence and deposits you on a ledge. Lean right and load up the flake on Unbroken Chain, then climb the arete via its less steep left side to the anchors on The Side Wall.
The Sidewall alcove is a nice warm hang on winter days, especially if the sun is out.
Protection Two crashpads, RPs and stoppers, small TCUs and a skyhook.
By steve dieckhoff
Apr 2, 2004
| Rolo repeated this today in true "Headpoint" style, but w/o crashpads. See attached photos of duct-taped hooks & Birdbeak and try to imagine the horrified excitement I felt as the belayer. Whew. |
By Brady Robinson
Dec 11, 2011
rating: 5.12 X
| Fun toprope, no interest in leading this thing however. |
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