There are 2 starts to this route, the easier and safer being the right start, shown in the picture. Trend to the right up a protectable flake and move left around an arete to a bolt. Clip that bad boy. Move your way over to the A-shaped roof and clip an old Lost Arrow (there is gear to be had behind a corner to your right as you stem up to the crux). Continue moving up the right facing corner through the crux to an awesome finish at the top of the corner. As of 8.10.12, there are fixed slings to clip at the top, and you can move straight left to the tree and the chains.
I want to go replace the old Lost Arrow (pretty rusty and scary), I would do it on lead, to keep the route the way the first ascentionists left it for us mere mortals.
Any thoughts on that?
Start right on the creek, it is an awesome zone to hang out and climb.