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 ADVANCED
Lower Hawksbill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Conventional Warfare T,S 
Diving Board, The T 
Encore T 
Fat Lady, The T 
Gorilla Tactics  T 
Ice Cream Direct T 
Jeep's Chimney T 
King of Kings T 
King of Kings roof finish (P-2) T 
Phantom of the Opera T 
Trundle From Down Under T 
Whip-or-will T 

Conventional Warfare 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Bruce Burgess, Sam Stevenson - 1989 FFA: Bruce Burgess - 1991
Page Views: 999
Submitted By: Ben Sachs on Jun 13, 2010

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Christian getting it done on P2, Conventional Warf...

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Very cool overhung dihedral. Both technical and powerful. Small crimps, but fancy footwork keeps you from pulling too hard on them. This route used to be 12d, but holds have broken and I think consensus is 13a now. Rarely done 2nd pitch climbs short dihedral to the right on gear at 11b.

Location 

Right end of Lower HB

Protection 

5 bolts. This route was recently rebolted (not by me) with stainless hardware. No more cruxing over rusty self-drives from the 80's. A bolted anchor was also added for the 1st pitch. A fixed nut (#8 BD) used to protect the finish but is not needed with the new anchor and has been removed. Bring one if you are sketched by the 3 moves of 5.6 that it protects (still not a ground fall).


Comments on Conventional Warfare Add Comment
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By Ben Sachs
Oct 26, 2011

I hear the bolted anchor got removed. Now instead of maybe 4 ascents per year this will see 0 as it has for the previous decade. I guess this is what the FA party wants. Glad I got to send before it happened.
By nbrown
From: western NC
Jun 22, 2012

A new and very steep variation second pitch/link-up has been established through the steep wall directly above the first pitch corner. It's listed as King Of Kings roof finish and worth doing if you like roofy climbing.
By Abel Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 17, 2012

Keep stemming higher! The anchors were gone but it was easy to down climb back to the top bolt and lower on someone's leaver biner. There is a fixed nut now but it is a drag to lower off of. It would be cooler to continue and link it in to the second pitch.