Conventional Warfare  5.13a

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 75 feet Consensus:  5.13a [details] FA:  Bruce Burgess, Sam Stevenson - 1989 FFA: Bruce Burgess - 1991 Submitted By:  Ben Sachs on Jun 13, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Christian getting it done on P2, Conventional Warf...

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2013 Closure in effect MORE INFO >>> Effective January 2013, All areas between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed due to local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>> Big Lost Cove Cliffs are closed to climbing due to the local falcon population This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Very cool overhung dihedral. Both technical and powerful. Small crimps, but fancy footwork keeps you from pulling too hard on them. This route used to be 12d, but holds have broken and I think consensus is 13a now. Rarely done 2nd pitch climbs short dihedral to the right on gear at 11b.

Location 

Right end of Lower HB

Protection 

5 bolts. This route was recently rebolted (not by me) with stainless hardware. No more cruxing over rusty self-drives from the 80's. A bolted anchor was also added for the 1st pitch. A fixed nut (#8 BD) used to protect the finish but is not needed with the new anchor and has been removed. Bring one if you are sketched by the 3 moves of 5.6 that it protects (still not a ground fall).