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Conundrum
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 4
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Routes in The Puzzle
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Conundrum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cross Words S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | James Garrett and Kris Pietryga, 18 November 2007 |
| Page Views: | 771 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Nov 19, 2007 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
After viewing it from afar and then while approaching it, I initially thought we'd be disappointed. We were surprised to find a fun granite slab with thought provoking moves. Unlike many LCC slab climbs that may contain hard pure friction and repetitve movement from chickenhead to chickenhead, this rock has many features. It becomes steeper than it appears from below. As it is more fractured, you will encounter some cracks that easily accept gear as well.
Pitch #1: Not all that homogenous at first, but it gets better the higher one climbs. Smooth slab passing 3 bolts to a large ledge after 40 feet....continue on to another bolt where the angle steepens passing two more bolts and a fixed piton. Belay at the ledge at a two bolt belay. 50m, 5.8.
Pitch #2: Climb directly above the belay on thin puzzling moves to a bolt. Continue up an arete like feature passing more bolts to a left trending crack to a small overhang. Climb above this to a lower angle slab and continue on about 10m to the anchors. Excellent rock and climbing that stirs up your brain cells. Little bit of a thought provoking puzzler. 5 bolts 35m, 5.9.
Rappel the route with 1x 70m rope or two ropes.
Pitch #1: Not all that homogenous at first, but it gets better the higher one climbs. Smooth slab passing 3 bolts to a large ledge after 40 feet....continue on to another bolt where the angle steepens passing two more bolts and a fixed piton. Belay at the ledge at a two bolt belay. 50m, 5.8.
Pitch #2: Climb directly above the belay on thin puzzling moves to a bolt. Continue up an arete like feature passing more bolts to a left trending crack to a small overhang. Climb above this to a lower angle slab and continue on about 10m to the anchors. Excellent rock and climbing that stirs up your brain cells. Little bit of a thought provoking puzzler. 5 bolts 35m, 5.9.
Rappel the route with 1x 70m rope or two ropes.
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