|The Chapel Wall
An eighties classic! Talk about going through the sizes. This crack starts out small and straight in, then turns left facing and slowly gets wider as it gets higher.
Follow directions to Drive By Shooting. Wind through the talus to the right and gain the climber's trail that skirts the base of the cliff to the west. Look for the short left arching crack, just below Cosmic Debris.
Single set to a #4 Camelot.
|Comments on Controlled Burn
Mar 12, 2010
The crack starts out about ten feet above the ground. There use to be a bay tree that was used to access the crack. The tree has since died and is no longer there. A bolt was placed, apparently with the permission of the first ascentist, but was quickly chopped. Now, it may require a climb your partner and stand on his/her shoulders start.
I have not been on the climb since 2000-2003. The anchor was in bad shape. Has this been fixed?
The top rope to the left is called Scattered Youth .11d
|By Billy Smallen|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 1, 2011
The anchor was in bad shape! When I replaced it in 2006, the bolts were scary... they were backed up with three stoppers in the crack to the right! I carry one of those bolts around with me as a reminder of how deceptively bad 1/4" bolts can be, it was rusted internally, but not visibly, and broke easily as I tried to remove it. The anchor is bomber now, and the route is amazing!
When I was last on it (2006) someone had propped up a large branch to climb up to get the first hold.
Beautiful climb, dont miss it!
From: San Jose
May 13, 2013
I enjoyed the climb breathing hard by the end. Tricky to start without the tree. Bring the 12feet ladder to bypass 12 feet of blank face.
Took double rack up to #4 and used them all.
Top rope to the left Scattered Youth .11d - interesting climb