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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burning Chrome 
Cinders And Saints 
Color of Pomegranates, The 
Controlled Burn  
Darkness 'til Dawn 
Direct Variation to Zot Face 
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) 
Doris Gets Her Oats 
Dream Weaver 
Everybody Route, The 
Fanning the Flame 
Grand Course, The 
Grandmother's Challenge 
Great Zot Variation A., The 
Great Zot, The 
Green Hornet, The 
Green Slab Direct 
Green Slab-Original Route 
Green Sleeves 
Green Spur, The 
Heddie La Rue 
Hot Links 
Hot Spur, The 
Lost in Space 
Northumberland Crack 
Paris Girl 
Piece of the Sun  
Please Close Lid 
Rabbits From Hats 
Razors to Rubble 
Rebuffat's Arete 
Roof Wall, The 
Silver Raven 
Spur of the Moment 
Swanson Arete 
Tower Corner Exit 
Unknown left of Darkness 'til Dawn 
Waiting Room 
Warm and Fuzzy 
West Chimney 
Zot Face, The 

Controlled Burn  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bruce Miller, Kent McClannan, 2010
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Kent McClannan on Jul 19, 2011
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  • Description 

    Begin between The Hot Spur and Waiting Room.

    P1: Climb the lichen-covered dihedral to a pine tree, 100 feet (5.9 entry to access dihedral, then mostly 5.8).

    P2: Climb to the loose ledge, aiming for the hanging dihedral system left of Northumberland Crack’s crux pitch. Climb through bulge and the steep dihedral (5.10b/c R), then climb a slab angling slightly left near top on prominent 5.7 R jugs to a ledge, 110 feet.

    P3: Climb obvious thin crack right of the Hot Spur’s final pitch (5.10c, 35 feet).


    Standard Eldo rack.

    Comments on Controlled Burn Add Comment
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    By Greg Miller
    From: boulder, co
    Oct 3, 2012

    If this is the dihedral around the corner of p.1 of Hot Spur, I climbed the first pitch in early 2010 (March?) and called it Machete 5.9. The first bit was really bushy. We continued up a big flake to the pine tree. I'll look for exact date. Fun first pitch though!