Contra 5.11
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BETA PHOTO: Contra.
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Description Contra is located on an upper steep head wall above Lunchmoney. The climb is about 50 feet in length. Same approach as Lunchmoney. Three options for the approach: 1) climb Lunchmoney and continue above chains through loose fifth class about forty feet to big ramp. 2) Traverse ledge system at the base of Lunchmoney to the south and hike up the first easy ramp to the top. 3) climb Mounty (5.7 trad) to ramp. Up, Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, B, A, Start. Please confirm rating, as this is a new route.
Protection Four protection bolts, two bolt anchor with webbing. (Chains will be there soon....) TCU handy for start.
By piz May 29, 2002
| Hey Darren, It's 5.10b good fun and a nice line. piz : ) |
By Anonymous Coward Jun 28, 2002
| 10b for tall people.... 2 moves harder for mid 5 footers. The rock quality is much better than it appears. |
By Darren Mabe From: Flagstaff, AZ Dec 12, 2002
| It is possible to protect the direct start with a funky green Alien. This will at least keep you from tumbling down the ramp. Once on the ledge underneath the first bolt, you can get yellow TCU in the horizontal. Extend with runner to avoid crossload of biner. BTW there are quicklinks on the anchors, not chains. |
By Bryson Slothower May 14, 2003
| 10b seems like a sandbag to me, and I'm tall. Reaching the last hold before the anchors felt .11ish to me. |
By Casey Bernal From: Arvada, CO May 14, 2003 rating: 5.10+
| Bryson - On the FA it sure felt like 11 hence the original rating. Piz found a hidden hold and new sequence to do the crux. Doing it with his beta it seemed much much easier, probably as hard as the previous semi-crux. Probably 10ish. |
By Drew Allan From: Denver/Aspen May 27, 2003 rating: 5.10d
| I have to agree with Bryson. On sight this route is 11ish or at least 10d++. I am also 6' and had trouble finding the right sequence just before the anchor. I certainly didn't find a hidden hold to make it 10b. Although it is short, the route is harder than most 10c/d's in CC (to qualify: CC 10c/d only!!). The route is definitely steeper and more edgy than I expected. Make sure to bring your edging shoes. Footholds down low on the right side are still flaking off somewhat. If you come from Lunchmoney, note the old pin above the anchor and pass it and head up and right to Contra. Be Careful with the lichen and loose rock. NOTE: There is a big Raven/Crow's nest to the right of the top of this route with three to four babies in there. Mom wasn't happy to have us there. I didn't see the nest until I got to the anchors. It might be advisable to stay off this route until mid summer when presumably the babies will have left. |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 27, 2003
| Looks like there is a math error, whereas if the original route poster does not specify a grade, then other people add 'consensus' grades, the rating average is divided by N+1, not N, and thus the grade is mathematically sandbagged. Myke & Ben, one to work on. |
By Matt Juth From: Evergreen Oct 6, 2003 rating: 5.11a
| I am biased being that I am restricted to a dyno for the hold at the top, but 10b? Sorry, Piz, we are just mere mortals.... |
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Jun 3, 2004 rating: 5.11b
| Fun climb, but ledges divert one's attention from the moves on lead. Don't know of any local 10b like this. 2 lunges at 5'10" +2. With a 60m rope, you can rap to Lunchmoney's anchors if Monty has traffic. |
By Geoff U From: Highlands Ranch, CO Nov 8, 2010 rating: 5.11a
| I don't see how a dyno at the top is necessary. I felt it was fairly static by going with the left hand and rotating the left hip into the wall. Fun, thoughtful route. |
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